Approval Details

Valid E.O.


This Executive Order approved the specified parts on on April 4, 1991.
As of Wednesday, October 16th, 2019 this Executive Order has not been overturned or superceeded.

Approved Parts

1989-1991 BMW 535i, 1988-1989 BMW 635CSi, L6 1988-1991 BMW 735i and 735iL

This Executive Order may be listed as:
  • C.A.R.B.E.O. D-176-1
  • Executive Order 176-1 / D176-1
  • ARB # D-176-1
  • Executive Order No: D-176-1
  • C.A.R.B. No. D-176-1
  • Resolution D-176-1
For Free CARB Executive Order Status verification, email an image of the device Executive Order label as well as the Year/Make/Model and Test Group # of the vehicle to [email protected]

Download: Executive Order D-176-1 PDF

D-176-1 Document:

                                                     (Page 1 of 2)

                            State of California
                            AIR RESOURCES BOARD

                          EXECUTIVE ORDER D—176—1
                 Relating to Exemptions Under Section 27156
                            of the Vehicle Code

                          DINAN ENGINEERING, INC.
                          STAGE 1 TURBOCHARGER KIT

Pursuant to the authority vested in the Air Resources Board by Section 27156
of the Vehicle Code; and

Pursuant to the authority vested in the undersigned by Sections 39515 and
39516 of the Health and Safety Code and Executive Order G—45—5;

IT IS ORDERED AND RESOLYED:  That the installation of the add—on Stage 1
turbocharger kit manufactured by Dinan Engineering, Inc. has been found not
to reduce the effectiveness of required motor vehicle pollution control
devices and, therefore, is exempt from the prohibitions of Section 27156 of
the Vehicle Code for 1989—1991 model year BMW 535i, 1988—1989 mode! year BMW
635CSi, L6 and 1988—1391 model year BMW 7351 and 735iLl models.
Modifications to the OEM emission—related parts due to the installation of
the turbocharger kit include longer positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)
tubing due to location of new intake plumbing, replacement of the air
cleaner assembly and relocation of the oxygen sensor from the catalytic
converter to the exhaust manifold.

This Executive Order is valid provided that installation instructions for
this turbocharger kit will not recommend tuning the vehicle to
specifications different from those submitted by the device manufacturer.

Changes made to the design or operating conditions of the device, as
exempted by the Air Resources Board, that adversely affect the performance
of a vehicle‘s pollution control system shall invalidate this Executive

Marketing of this device using an identification other than that shown in
this Executive Order or marketing of this device for an application other
than those listed in this Executive Order shall be prohibited unless prior
approval is obtained from the Air Resources Board.  Exemption of a kit shall
not be construed as an exemption to sell, offer for sale, or advertise any
component of a kit as an individual device.

This Execultive Order does not constitute any opinion as to the effect the
use of this device may have on any warranty either expressed or implied by
the vehicle manufacturer.


No c]a@m of any kind, such as "Approved by the Air Resources Board" may be
made with respect to the action taken herein in any advertising or other
oral or written communication.

                                          (Page 2 of 2)

Section 17500 of the Business and Professions Code makes untrue or
misleading advertising unlawful, and Section 17534 makes viclation
punishable as a misdemeanor.

Section 43644 of the Health and Safety Code provides as follows:

     "43644,   (a)   No person shall install, sell, offer for sale, or
     advertise, or, except in an application to the state board for
     certification of a device, represent, any device as a motor vehicle
     pollution control device for use on any used motor vehicle unless that
     device has been certified by the state board.  No person shall sell,
     offer for sale, advertise, or represent any motor vehicle pollution
     control device as a certified device which, in fact, is not a certified
     device. Any violation of this subdivision is a misdemeanor."

Any apparent violation of the conditions of this Executive Order will be
submitted to the Attorney General of California for such action as he deems

Executed at El Monte, California, this   917(43   //f April, 1991.

                         State of California
                         AIR RESOURCES BOARD


                              April, 1991

                                                          April, 1991

                IN ACCORDANCE WITH SECTION 2222, TITLE 13, OF

                           Mobite Source Division

                            State of California
                            AIR RESOURCES BOARD
                            9528 Telstar Avenue
                          E1 Monte, CA    91731—2990

{This report has been reviewed by the staff of the California Air Resources
Board and approved for publication. Approval does not signify that the
contents necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Air Resources
Board, nor does mention of trade names or commercial products constitute
endorsement or recommendation for use.)


       Dinan Engineering, Inc. has applied for an exemption from the

prohibitions of YVehicle Code Section 27156 for their Stage 1 Turbocharger

Kit for installation on 1989—1991 model year BMW 535i, 1988—1989 model year

BMW 635CSi, L6 and 1988—1991 model year BMW 735i and 735il models. Dinan has

submitted a completed application and other required information, as well as

exhaust emissions test data performed at Automotive Club of Southern

California Laboratory (ACSC) which shows that their kit does not have any

adverse effect on the exhaust emissions.    Testing performed at the Air

Resources Board (ARB) confirmed the results of ACSC.

       Based on the submitted information and the results of the emissions

tests performed at ACSC and the ARB, the staff concludes that the

installation of Dinan‘s Stage 1 turbocharger kit will not adversely affect

exhaust emissions on the specified vehicles.

       The staff recommends Dinan Engineering, Inc. be granted an exemption

as requested and that Executive Order D—176—1 be issued.



SUMMARY                                                i

CONTENTS                                              11

1.      INTRODUCTIO                                    1



       APPENDIX A — Installation instructions and

                      the parts list

       APPENDIX B — Diagram of Dinan Turbo System



           Dinan Engineering, Inc. (Dinan)} of 81 Pioneer Way, Mountain View,

California 94041, has applied for an exemption from the prohibitions of

Yehicle Code Section 27156 for their Turbocharger Kit for installation on

1989—1991 model year BMW 535i, 1988—1989 model year BMW 635CSi, L6 and 1988—

1991 model year BMW 73514 and 735iLl models.

           Dinan has submitted a completed application and all the required

information as well as exhaust emissions test data performed at Automobile

Club of Southern California Laboratory (ACSC) on a 1989 model year BMW 5351.

Confirmatory tests were performed on the same vehicle at the ARB.

     II.   CONCLUSION                                                .
           Based on the submitted information and the results from exhaust

emissions tests performed at ACSC and confirmatory testing conducted at the

ARB, the staff concludes that Dinan‘s Phase 1 turbocharger kit will not

adversely affect exhaust emissions from vehicles for which the exemption

is requested.


           The staff recommends that Dinan Engingering, Inc. be granted an

exemption as requested and that Executive Order D—180—7 be issued.


           The purpose of the Dinan turbocharger system is to increase the power

output of the engine by compressing the intake charge with pressures above

that of the atmosphere.        The increase in pressure allows a greater charge

density to enter the combustion chamber causing an increase in the

volumetric efficiency of the engine.    Ificreased pressure allows a greater

charge density to enter the combustion chamber providing more oxygen for

combustion.   Since the air flow increases, extra fuel is needed to maintain

proper air—fuel ratios.    The Dinan turbo system incorporates a fuel

management system wh{ch provides precise fuel flow at different rpm‘s and

air flows.

       The major components of the system include a turbocharger,

intercooler, a modified ECU prom program, electronic fuel enrichment

computer, wastegate, and detonation control system.     The turbocharger is a

Garret/Airesearch 104853 with an air ratio (A/R) of 0.69.     The turbine,

driven by exhaust gases, is linked to the compressor. The intake air is

routed to the compressor through the compressor inlet pipe.     It is then

compressed and routed to an air—to—air intercooler to reduce the intake

charge temperature and the occurrence of detonation.     It is then routed to

tfie intake plenum.     Lubrication and cooling of the turbocharger bearings is

provided by the engine oil.    Lubricating oil from the turbocharger is

returned to the oil pan.

       The modified ECU PROM program is utilized to re—curve the fuel

injection system and the ignition system to match the requirements of the

turbocharged engine.

       Proper fuel delivery under boost conditions is provided by an

electronic fuel enrichment computer.    Maximum positive pressure (boost) is

limited to 10.0 psi for vehicles equipped with manual transmissions and 9.0

psi for cars equipped with automatic transmissions by a Rayjoy wastegate.

       The detonation control system is an electronic ignition control

computer that prevents the occurrence of detonation under boost conditions.

It is a closed loop digital computer which retards timing when detonation is


       Modification to the OEM emission related parts due to the

installation of the turbocharger kit include longer positive crankcase

ventilation (PCY) tubing due to location of new intake plumbing, replacement

of the air cleaner assembly and relocation of the oxygen sensor from the

catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.     No other OEM emission control

components are removed, disconnected or relocated when the turbocharger kit

is installed.     Installation instructions, included in every kit, show the

kit installer how to properly install the turbo system.     Appendix A shows

the installation instructions and the parts list.

       Turbocharger kit numbers for the various BMW vehicle models are:

       1. 1989—1991 535i: D—800—5351 for manual transmission and D—800—5352

       for automatic transmission.

       2. 1988—1989 635CSi, L6: D—800—6351 for manual transmission and D—

       800—6352 for automatic transmission.

       3. 1988—1991 7351 and 735iL: D—800—7351 for manual transmission and

       D—800—7352 for automatic transmission.

       A 1989 California certified BMW 535i with a manual transmission was

used for emissions testing.     Dinan performed emissions testing at ACSC

laboratory.     The test program consisted of one FTP CVS—75 (cold start) test

on the test vehicle in the modified configuration (tested against the

standard).    The results of the exhaust emissions test performed at ACSC are

shown in Table 1.

                                      Table 1

                               CVS—75 TEST RESULTS
                    {Automotive Club of Southern California)

                                            HC       CO     NOx
                    Emission standards     O.41      7.00   0.7

                    Turbocharged           0.35      5.71   0.08

       Confirmatory testing was performed at the ARB.        The results are

shown in Table 2.

                                      Table 2

                               CVS—75 TEST RESULTS
                              (Haagen—Smit Laboratory)

                                            HC        cO     NOx
                    Turbocharged 1         0.19      4.48   0.08

                    Turbocharged 2         0.24      4.02   0.07

                    Average                0.21      4.25    0.07

       The CVS—75 emissions test results at ACSC and confirmatory testing at

the ARB indicate that HC, CO and NOx emissions of Dinan‘s Stage 1

turbocharger system is well below the emission standards. This demonstrates

that the installation of the Dinan turbo system on specified vehicles will

not adversely affect the exhaust emissions.

       Dinan submitted all the required information and fulfilled the

requirements for an exemption.       The test results confirms that Dinan‘s turbo

system meets the requirements for the exemption.

              APPENDIX A

Installation Instructions and Parts List

                            1989—> S35i    _
                        1988—> 735i, 739iL

1. Disconnect the negative battery ground cable that is behind the small
plastic cover below the front of the passenger side rear seat.

2. Unbolt the airbox—airflow meter assembly from the engine valve cover
and fenderwell and remove from car with the main airboot and PCV hose
connected. Be sure to disconnect the small vacuum hose from the PCY
hose, leaving small hose on engine.

3. Remove the black plastic cover from behind the right side headlights.

4. Remove the two fuel hoses and vacuum hose that connect to the fuel
pressure regulator on engine. Unbolt and remove fuel pressure regulator.

5. Loosen the two hose clamps at the rear of the fuel rail that connect the
short hose between the fuel rail and fuel inlet pipe. Push hose forward off
of fuel rail.

                t the long plastictop piece off of the fuel injector wire
                y prying on the lock tabs.

7. Unplug the two front pulley magnetic sensor wire plugs from the front
right side of the injector wire plug rail.

8. Remove the two Allen head bolts that hold down the wire rail.

9. Pull the wire rail up away from the injectors.

10. Remove the three plastic clips that hold the inlet and return fuel pipes
to fuel rail.

11. Note position of the two metal nut tabs that are mounted under two of
the three injector fuel rail hold down bolts. Remove the three bolts and
carefully remove the injector fuel rail with the injectors.

12. On workbench remove the injector retaining clips and remove

13. Locate the turbo injectors from kit and install them using a littie
grease on the rubber o—rings to protect them from damage during

14. Reinstall fuel rail with the injectors using a little grease on the
injector o—rings. Correctly position the metal nut tabs.

15. Locate the newturbo fuel pressure regulator from kit and install on
fuel rail using a little grease on the rubber o—ring.          ~

16. Connect the fuel hoses and vacuum hése to the fuel pressure regqulator.
Reconnect the short hose between the fue} rail and the fuel inlet pipe.

17. Reinstall the three plastic clips that hold the inlet and return pipes to
the fuel rail.

18. Carefully line up the wire rail plugs with the injector sockets and
push doven until all are correctly mated. Reinstall the two Alten head
boitaj Do not reinstall the plastic wire rail top piece at this time.

 18. Reconnect the magneticsensor plugs to the wire ratil.

21. Remove the black plastic cover that is above the oil filler cap and just
behind ignition coil that is secured by two large plastic slot head screws.

21. Remove the plastic distributor cap cover and refer to Figure 1 to see
how the cover must be cut to allow for intercooler clearance. Mark the
cover as shown using a sharp scribe and cut out the corner piece using
hacksaw or a fiberglass cutting disc held in a rotary die grinder clean up
rough edges with file. Do not reinstall cover yet.

272. Unplug the washer pump wire plug and the washer fluid level sensor
vwrire plug from the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Mark these plugs to
identify them in a later step. Cut the small clear hose at the washer pump
and remove the washer fluid reservoir from car. You may want to save the
fluid in a clean container until after you install the fluid reservoir on the
other side of engine compartment.

    Remove the large plastic cover under the front of the engine.

24. Remove the front sway bar.

25. Unbalt the front swaybar mount braces and allow the tubular
crossbrace to hang for now.

Qe. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire plug which is located at the lower rear
  left side of the engine block.

  27. Unbolt the small curved metal tube that holds the oxygen sensor wire
  to the bottom of the car.                                      |

  28. Remove the heatshield from the far right side of the tubular
  crossbrace.                                                        v

  29. Remove the heatshield from the right side of the front subframe.

  30. Remove the transmission to exhaust bracket and save all pieces for
  reuse later.

  31. Remove the entire exhaust system from the car.

  32. Remove the aoxygen sensor from the catalyst and plug the hole with the
  18mm Allen head plug and sealing ring from kit. Keep the oxygen sensor in
    safe place until it is time to install it in the turbo exhaust manifold.

  33. Remove the exhaust manifolds.

  34. Remove the twelive mm exhaust studs from the cylinder head using
  two 8mm nuts jammed together on the threads then using a wrench to turn
  the inside nut.

  35. Use an Omm x 1.25mm tap to clean out the threads in the head so that
  the new shouldered studs can be installed to correct depth. Blow out each
  hole with compressed air after tapping.

  36. Install the new shouldered exhaust studs using two 8mm nuts jammed
  together on the longer threaded portion of the studs. Use a little red
  Loctite on the shorter threaded end of studs to help keep studs from         Ehn
  coming out. tighten studs well with the shouldered section partially         '
  jammed into the threads.

  7. Apply a Hitle copper antisieze compound to the threads of the exhaust
    uds in preparation for manifold installation.

  38. Apply a Hitle antisieze compound on the two wastegate studs on
  exhaust manifold.                                >

   9. Instal? the wastegate on the exhaust manifold using two tOmm
  «nurled washers and two 1Omm copper locknuts. The adjustment screw
  for the wastegate should point up with the outlet flange pointing away              j
  from the exhaust ports.                                                             [

  40. Mount the wastegate dumppipe assembly to the wastegateusing two
  378" x 1—1/4" boits, two 10mm wave washers and two 1Omm copper lock
  nuts. Use a little antisteze on the bolt threads. The dumppipe should point
  down and backwards.

  41. Apply a little antisieze compound to the threads of the oxygen sensor
  that you previously removed from the catalyst and install it in the exhaust

  42. Locate the 178" pipe to —4, 90° fitting from kit. Apply a little
  antisieze to the pipe threads of the fitting and install fitting in the front
  threaded hole of the wastegate. Tighten fitting with the —4 portion
  pointing toward the 1Omm hole in the wastegate outlet flange.

{ & Place the exhaust manifold assembly in position on head. Check to see
  that the clearance between the dumppipe and the underbody insulation is
  at least 378". If clearance is insufficient, remove the manifold and use a
  hammer to beat up the insulation a little to gain proper clearance.

  44. install the exhaust manifold on the head using six new exhaust
  gaskets, twelve 8mm knurled washers and twelive 8mm copper locknuts,.               .
  Start all nuts by hand first before tightening any. Make sure that each         .   1
  gasket lines up correctly with each port, gasket flat spot points down.
  Make nuts Tairly tight since these nuts are subjected to a lot of heat and

  45. Refer to Figure 2 to see where the oil return hole is to be drilled in
  the lower right rear side of the engine block. Carefully measure and mark
  the spot to be drilled, Mark the spot with a center punch.

  46. Drilt the marked spot with a small pilot hole using a drill bit about
  1/8". Try to drill hole perpendicular to surface being dritled.

   . Now start to drill the hole using a 45764" drill bit, but stop drilling
   fore the bit is nearly through block. (45764" is the correct tap drill size
 ror a 1/2" NPT tap. You may use an 117 16" drill bit if you don‘t have the
 correct bit.) Pack the tip of the drill bit with grease to help catch the
 Tlying metal chips and prevent them from entering engine. Drill a little                                                            (
 then clean and regrease dril} bit a few times until hole ts completed.                                                              i

 48. Tap the hole using a 1/2" pipe tap packed with grease. Make sure you
 keep tap perpendicular to the surface being tapped. Clean and repack the
 tap a few times until tapping is completed. Be very careful not to run the
 tap in too deep. Correct threading depth is determined by screwing the ol
 return block fitting into the threaded hole by hand and observing how many
 turns fitting will make with finger pressure only. The oil return block
 fitting is the 172" pipe to 578" tube 45° fitting from kit. This should turn
 about 1— 172 to 2 turns in by hand for correct threading depth.

 49. Clean out the remaining chips from the oi return hole using a flexible
 head magnet tool. Now use the magnet tool to reach into the off pan to
 retrieve as many stray chips as possible. Clean magnet and repeat process
‘veral times until magnet comes up clean.

 50. Instalt the ol return fitting with pipe thread sealant on the pipe
 threads. Hose tube shoultd point straight up and away from engine.

 51. Locate the detonation sensor and detonation sensor mounting bolt
 from the Turbotronics 4, Dinan Detonation Control System (DDCS). Refer
 to Figure 3 to note the location of the sensor. Mount the mounting boit to
 the block using 1O0mm wave washer.

 52. Mount the detonation sensor on to the the boit with 8mm wave
 washers on each side of the sensor. Secure with one 8mim nylock nut, but
 do not tighten nut yet.

 53. Apply a little copper antisieze to the four 10mm turbocharger
                                                                                 remnvememmcmerm e nentomtnomeimtinemen nc msecons

 mounting studs on the exhaust manifold. Mount the turbocharger assembly
 to the exhaust manifold using four 1Omm knurled washers and four 1Omm
 copper lock nuts, Make these nuts very tight. There is no gasket needed
 between the turbocharger and manifold.

      54.    install the 3"°" tong piece of 578" oil return hose between turbo oil
        turn fitting and fitting you installed in block. The secret to Installing
    ‘"nis hose is to turn the lower fitting until the hose slides onto the turbo
      fitting. Stide the two #*10 hose clamps onto the lower fitting. Then push
      hose up onto turbe fitting and push it over to start it onto lower fitting.
      Now turn lower fitting into hose. This job is made easier if a little spray
      lubricant such as spray silicone is applied to the inside of each end of
      hose. Center the hose between the fittings and tighten the clamps.

      55. See Figure 4 to see where to mark and drill the oil filter housing base
      for installing the turbo otler fitting. Unboit the oil fiiter canister top and
      discard the filter. Unbolt the oil filter housing from the side of engine
      block being careful not to damage the gasket.

      56. wash the ofl Ttiter housing out using solvent. Mark the rear flat
      surface of the base flange as shown, then center punch spot. Drill base
      Nange with a 21764" drill.

      57. Tap the hole you drilled in the base flange using a 178" pipe tap, but be
      very careful not to tap hole too deep. Check the threading depth using the
        &" pipe to —4, straight fitting from kit. This fitting should turn in no
      more than 1 to 1—1/2 turns by hand when threading depth is correct. Clean
      out the hole and then use compressed air to blow out the entire housing.

      58. Install the 1/78" pipe to —4 , straight fitting into the tapped hole using
      some pipe thread sealant. Be sure to tighten fitting well.

      59. Reinstall the oil filter housing on engine with original gasket.

      60. Install a new ofl filter and replace canister top.

      61. Change engine ol now unless it was just changed. If not changing ofl1,
      add 172 quart. Install the oil temperature sender at this time if a Dinan        ‘   B
      gauge panel is to be installed.

      62. Reattach the spark plug wire harness to the valve cover and spark

       w. Find where #1, #2 and #3 spark plug wires come out of the plastic
;           e near the distributor cap, pull each of these wires forward to use up
      the slack wire between the spark plugs and plastic tube.

64. Replace the plastic distributor cap cover that you modified in an
earlier step.

85. Connect the 45", —4 oiler between the turbocharger oiler fitting and
the —4 fitting you installed in the oil filter housing. Apply a little
antisieze to the threads and sealing surface of both —4 fittings. Route the
ciler line up from the turbocharger then back across the rear of engine
toward the intake manifold, run the hose under the intake runners forward
to the fitting on the oil filter housing. Make sure that the hose does not
touch or get close to vital items such as brake and fuel lines.

66.. Connect the 17", —4 wastegate hose between the —4 fitting on the
wastegate and the —4 fitting on the front of the turbocharger compressor.
Use a little antisieze on both fittings. You may want to turn the
wastegate fitting farther away from the exhaust manifold to keep the hose
away from the heat of the manifold, but maintain a minimum clearance of
172" between hose and frame rail. This hose should be at least 1—17/4"
away from the exhaust manifold.

67. The windshield washer fluid reservoir must be relocated to the left
side of the engine compartment after minor modifications. Remove the
two nuts that secure the cruise control cable modulator, power steering
reservoir, and the charcoal canister to the bracket that is on the left
wheel well. Lift both the charcoal canister and the cruise contraol
modulator off of the mounting studs and move them out of the way of the
forward section of wheel well bracket with the two small square holes.

68. Use a fiberglass cutting disc held in a rotary die grinder to cut off the
unused section of the wheel well bracket as shown in Figure 5. Clean up
rough edges using die grinder bit. Use appropriate color touch up paint to
cover the bare metal surfaces.

69. Cut off the lower alignment tab from the bottom of the washer bottle
as shown in Figure 6 using bandsaw or hacksaw.

70. Place the washer bottle in its new position behind the far left
headlight resting on the left front wheel well. Hold washer bottle with
the large upper mounting tab pressed against the wheel well, and with
about a 178" gap between the bottle and the teft hood hingepivot stud and
nut. The washer bottle should be parallel to the frame rail. With the
washer bottle held in this correct position use a sharp scribe to mark the
oval shape of the mounting tab hole on the wheel well top. Remove washer
bottle from car.

  71. Use a center punch to mark the center of the oval stot you marked on
    gel well. Drill mounting hole 9/32°. Deburr hole.

  72. Connect the new plece of washer hose from kit to the washer pump
  outlet tube,.

  73. Mount washer bottle to whee! well using one 6mm x 25mm bolt, two
  extra large 6mm flat washers and one 6mm nylock nut.

  74. Locate the wiring harness for the washer pump and fluid level sensor
  from kit.            ~

  75. Locate both the fluid level sensor plug and washer pump plugs that
  were ortginally connected to the pump and sensor. Cut each wire about 1"
  from plugs.

  76. Peel the tape back from the cut ends of the plugs and the wires that
  went to the plugs. You will use the wiring harness to extend the plugs to
  reach the new washer bottle location.

( . Slide the 3—1/4" long pieces of 3/8" shrink tubing onto the wires
 before crimping so that they can cover each pair of red butt connectors
 after crimping. Connect the wires as follows. Pump: Violet to
 violet/black, blue to violet/brown. Sensor brown to brown, black to

  78. Slide the shrink tubing over the wires and connectors then shrink the
  tubing using a cigarette lighter or heatgun.

 79. Route the harness down under the radiator in the sheet metal channel,
 then over and up to the washer reservoir. Wire tie the harness in place at
 the center of the sheet metal channel utilizing the existing hole in
 channel, Also wire tie the harness at both ends of the radiator to keep the
 wires away from the engine drive belts. You may wish to drill two more
 holes in the sheet metal channel for a more secure harness.

 80. Connect the plugs to the washer pump and fluid level sensor. Make
 sure that the fluid level sensor plug points straight up. (See flat spot on
"\SO!’ flange and washer reservoir recess.)

   él. Find the washer hose that you previously removed from the washer                10 ,
,‘ump when you removed the washer reservoir from its original position.                    =
  Route this hose and the new washer hose along the same route as the new
  wire harness until they meet. Cut off the excess hose and connect the two
  hoses using the 3/ 16" barbed connector.

  82. Loosely wire tie the washer hose to the wire harness.

  83. Refill the washer reservoir with a normal dilution of washer fluid.              |

  84. Locate the plastic cover you removed from behind the left headtights.
  Use Figure 7 to mark and cut this cover to make clearance for the
  windshield washer bottle. Use a bandsaw or similar tool to cut the
  plastic. File the rough edges smooth.

  85. Reinstall the plastic cover behind the left headtights.

  86. Loosen the hose clamp on the lower radtator hose at the radiator tube.               o
  Now slide the hose away from the radiator until the gap between the far          bel
 dght edge of the fan shroud and the front side of the lower radiator hose
    about 3—778". Retighten clamp in new position making sure clamp is not
  on top of the radiator tube lip. This procedure provides additional room
  for the intercooler that will occupy the space between the fan shroud and
  the lower radiator hose.

  87. Use Figure 8 for location of intercooler and positioning of mounting
  brackets. Locate the three rubber intercooler mounts which have 8mm
  studs. Attach two of the rubber mounts to the bottoms of the upper and
  lower mounting tab. Use an 8mm nut and one mm wave washer for each               1
  mount. Attach the rematning rubber mount to the top of the middle
  mounting tab.

  88. Connect the lower intercooler bracket to the lower rubber mount using
  an 8mm nut and wave washer. Do not tighten this nut all the way for          &
  adjustment purposes. The two hole mounting leg of this bracket rests
  against the top of the right front frame rail.

  89. Locate the upper intercooler bracket and connect it to the top rubber    i
 ‘ount using one 8mm wave washer and &8mm nut. This bracket is                 }
\ onnected with the two hole mounting leg rising up from the rubber mount
  as opposed to hanging below. Tighten nut only finger tight now.              |.

 | ‘;OA, Connect the middle intercooler bracket to its rubber mount using one
     m wave washer and one 8mm nut. The curved mounting leg of this
  vracket points up from the rubber mount. Again don‘t fully tighten nut.

  91. Hold intercooler in position as shown in Figure 8 with the intercooler                                                          P
  verticat and the left tank pressed against the fan shroud. Hold the lower                                                           l
  intercooler bracket firmly against the top of the frame rafl, and hold the
  middle intercooler bracket against the front of the right side wheet well.
  Also note the position of the upper intercooler bracket. With the

  intercooler held in this correct position mark onto the wheel well the two                                                          $
  bracket mounting holes for the middle bracket using a sharp scribe.
  Remove intercooler for now. Allow about 1/8" gap between the right side                                                             $
  of intercooler and the hood support hinge.

  92. Center punch and drill the two holes for the middle bracket using a
  9/32" drill bit.

  93. Use two 6mm x t6mm boits, four 6mm flat washers and two 6mm
  nylock nuts to temporarily mount the intercooler to the wheeli well.

 Q. Again hold the intercooler in the correct position and carefully mark
  the mounting holes for the lower and upper intercooler mounting brackets.
  Remove intercooler for now.

  95. Center punch and drill the two holes in the frame rail using a 37 16"
  drill bit. These holes are smaller for using self tapping screws.

  96. Use the two tOmm head sheet metal screws to go ahead and tap the                                                       i
  two 3716" holes. Apply a little grease to the tips of the screws and
  install thern about halfway using a 1Omm socket and long extension while                                              {

                                                                                o mmmmnneiinyt inmmeremm m ns inporcnasmn e nsc nun
  pushing down on ratchet fairly hard. Remove screws.

  97. Center punch and drill the two mounting holes for the upper
  intfercooler mount using a 9732" anill bit.

  98. Permanently install the intercooler using two 6mm x t6mm boits,
  four 6mm flat washers and two 6mm nylock nuts for the upper intercooler
  bracket. Use the previously mentioned hardware for mounting the other
 QO brackets. Make sure all the Smm nuts for the rubber mounts are
\ "Ightened now.

       ectronics: Steps 99—204 involve the wiring of the Dinan Engineering
     electronic control systems and installing a computer chip. Please follow       (
     these directions carefully. Make sure that all connections are secure and          .
     under no circumstances should 3M scotch lock type connectors be used in
     place of the supplted wire connectors. See Figure 9 for a wiring diagram
     of alt the Dinan Engineering components.                        ‘

     99. Locate the four 13" long wires for lengthening the wire plug that
     connects to the airfiow meter. These wires are colored: white, yellow,
     blue and violet. Also locate the eight 1" long pieces of 1/8" shrink tubing
     and the 16" long plece of 378" shrink tubing. Find the wire plug that was
     connected to the airflow meter.

     100. Slide the rubber boot off of the plug and back down the wires about

     101. Cut the four wires about 1" back from the back of the plug.

        2. Sotder the four wires to the four wires still connected to the wiring
;      C@W¥irness keeping the wires colors matched. Crossing or miss matching of
     the wires colors will result in a car that doesn‘t run, and possible
     computer damage. Cut back the outer sleeve a little if necessary.

     103. Slide one 1" long piece of 178" shrink tubing onto each wire and
     shrink the tubing over the solder jJoints. Use a heat gun or cigarette
     lighter to shrink tubing.

     104. Stip the 16" long piece of 378" shrink tubing over the four wires and
     onto the original wire sleeve, leaving the new wires hanging out a few
     inches for stripping and soidering.

     105. Slide one 1" fong piece of 178" shrink tubing onto each of the four
     wires then soilder the airflow meter plug to the four new wires keeping
     the wire colors matched.

     106. Shrink the 1" pleces of tubing over the solder joints.

    ‘7. SHde the 16" long plece of shrink tubing up to the plug and carefully
i Cnrink the entire piece of tubing.

     108. Spray a little silicone spray tubricant inside the rubber plug boot and
     a little on the shrink tube, then slide the boot back onto the plug.

—___. See Figure 10 for location of the Motronic electronic control unit
w_U). Removethe four phillips head screws that secure the large plastic
cover that is above the Motronic ECU. Remove cover.

 110. Unbolt and remove the Motronic ECU.

 111. Open glovebox and remove the small locking clips that hold the two
glovebox straps to the glovebox. Let the glovebox hang down for now.

 112. Remove the plastic cover that is in the top of the glovebox area, and
disconnect the glovebox light wires, and unplug the small switch from

t13. Remove the plastic cover that is at the far left side of glovebox
mounted to the side of the center console if you are installing a Dinan
gauge panel.

 114. models Find
tw‘" diameter black rubber plug that is installed in the firewall just
     d spot where the Motronic ECU is normally mounted. Remove this
rubber plug. Push out the round piece of foam insulation that is under the
hote in firewall.

115. Locate the tall hump shaped black rubber part that is right behind the
spot where the Motronic ECU is normaily mounted. Pull straight up on this
rubber piece to remove it from car. Notice the 1—374" round circle at top
of hump piece that is partially punched out. Use a pointed sharp knife or
similar cutting tool to cut out this round piece completely.

116. Locate the "Rubber duct for ECU installation". Connect the flexible
betiow end of this duct to the hole in the firewall using the three extended
rubber tabs to pull the grommet end into place.

117. Replace the rubber hump piece into its original position on the two

118. Connect the duct to the hump pitece utilizing the hole you just cut.
 T@Ip cuct will be used to route the Turbotronics 4 wiring from the
\_ vebox area into the ECU compartment in the rear of the engine
 compartment. If you are installing a gauge panel at this time you will also
 run the of} temperature sender wire through this duct.

Turbo Power Chip Instalation:


 119. Read Bosch part number on ECU. The number should be —
0—261—200— 179. if your computer does not display this part number, call
Dinan Engineering at (415) 962—9417. DO NOT install the power chip!

 120. See Figure 11. Place ECU on workbench with part number label face
down and using the pocket screwdriver pry the ten lock tabs that hold the
unit together up slightly. Just enough to get the small screwdriver under
the tabs and finish prying the tabs straight up. Separate case, set cover
aside. Check to make sure your ECU has one printed circuit (PC) board. If
 you have a two PC board ECU, you have an alder design ECU and this chip
will not work. Call Dinan Engineering at (4195) 962—9417.

121. See Figure 12. Find the socketed chip on the board. This chip can be
identified by the black plastic "H" shaped retaining chip locking it into the
socket and that it is elevated higher than any similar chip on the board.

122. See Figure 13. Remove the "H" shaped retaining clip by inserting the
pocket screwdriver into one of the small stots in the retaining clip and
prying towards the other slot. The retaining clip will pop up on the side
the screwdriver is inserted in, use a finger to hold that side up while you
insert the screwdriver in the other slot and release the other side. Lift
retaining clip off of the chip and set aside.

123. Remove chip from socket by inserting the pocket screwdriver
between the chip and the socket and prying up gently. Pry up in stages
switching ends as you go until the chip is totally loose. Set stock chip

124. See Figure 14. Notice the small divot on one end of the the poweer
chip. Notice a similar divot on one end of the socket. The chip must be
inserted so that both divots are on the same side. First insert one row of
pins in one side of the socket part—way. With two fingers push on the
other side of the chip until the other row of ping line up with the socket
and then push down on chip and make sure that itis inserted all the way.
Caution: BE CAREFUL NOT TOG BEND ANY PINS. Visually verify that all
the ping are in a socket hole and that all socket holes are filled with pins.

125. Reinstall retaining clip. Reinstall cover on ECU; use pliers to bend
cover lock taobs back into place. Leave ECU out at this time.

126. Unbolt and remove the ABS—ECU which is the farthest forward of the
main ECU‘s. See Figure 10.                                      |

127. Locate the Turbotronics 6 (Oxygen Sensor Control) packet from kit.
Pull out the control unit and the Yelcro adhesive stripping. You will be
mounting the Turbotronics 6 (T6) control unit to the bottom of the main
ECU compartment under the black relay mounting bracket and the ABS—ECU.
Cut two 3" tong pieces of the male/female Yelcro strip. Mount the two
fuzzy pieces to the bottom of the T6 control unit about 1—174" apart.

128. Cut a 12" long piece of the black 3.S5mm vacuum hose from kit. Push
this piece of hose onto the small vacuum hose nipple on the T6 control

129. Hold the T6 control unit down against the bottom panel of the ECU
compartment to see where it will fit nicely even after the ABS—ECU is
reinstalled. The wire harness and hose and of the T6 ECU should point
toward the engine. Scribe a line around the T6 control unit onto the
bottom panel? of the ECU compartment. Clean the plastic panel with some
ail free degreasing spray such as Srake Kleen or even a little lacquer

                                                                             mencenmenmemnreniemcs m mmomennnemmscmesnriympmimm regsenizon anmmnces meptemmmnemen mommempmmmaimyner wiee
thinner to ensure that the Yelcro adhesive will stick well. Attach the two
remaining 3" long Yelcro pieces in the scribed outline with the proper
spacing and push dowen hard on strips.

130. Mount the T6 ECU in position with the wiring harness and vacuum
hose routed up and toward engine for now.

131. Reinstall the ABS—ECU.

       132. Locate the Turbotronics 4 — Dinan Detonation Control System (DDCS)
    ‘1t. Remove the DDCS ECU from kit. Plug the wiring harness onto the DOCS
      ECU. This unit will be installed in the glovebox at the far left corner. Set
      the ECU in position in glovebox with the wiring harness toward the driver
      side of car and pushed all the way forward towards the front of the car.
      The ECU should be pushed to the left until the wiring harness is pushed                 i
      against the left side of the glovebox, this helps hold the harness plug in              )
      position and leaves more glovebox space for gloves! The harness wires                   DL
      should point up and toward the front of car. With the ECU held in this                               <
      position mark the four small mounting holes with a black felt tip pen. Pull
      the ECU out of the way for now. You may remove the glovebox from the car
      for the next few steps, see the plastic pivoting clamps that hold the
      glovebox to the pivoting shaft.

      133. Mark the four mounting hole centers for the DDCS ECU using a sharp
      scribe by pushing and rotating 1t untfl it makes a nice pilot mark.

      134 You will drill these four mounting holes with a 7/64" drill bit to a
      depth of 3/8". You may want to wrap your drill bit with duct tape leaving
    qfly 3/8" of it exposed so you can teil how deep you are dritling. Carefully
(      rill the four holes.

      135. Locate the four *6 x 378" phillips head screws that will be used to
      mount the DDCS ECU. Before actually installing the ECU you should screw
      one of the self tapping screws into each hole about halfway in to begin the
      threads. Remove screws and install the DDCS ECU permanently.

      136. Reinstall the glovebox but don‘t reconnect the glovebox straps.

      137. If you are going to install a Dinan gauge panel now is the time to do
      it.                                                                                 ‘
      138. The large green and white wires from the DDCS, the detonation
      sensor wires (black sleeve), the red power wire for DDOCS and the nylon
      vacuum hose from the DDCS pressure switch will atl be routed through the
      rubber duct for ECU wiring. You should also route the ofl temperature
      sender wire through this duct if you are installing the Dinan gauge panel.

        u should tape the ends of these wires and the nylon vacuum hose
      .ogether so you can run them through at the same time. Push the wires up
      through the lower end of the duct then pull them through the other end.
      Pull enough stack through to allow you to carefully route the wires out of
      the glovebox area in such a way that when the glovebox is up the plastic
      cover for the glovebox area can be reinstalled without interferance.           }

  39. Notice the three 10mm head boits that secure the dash supporting
“HCKEI above the center of the glovebox. Remove the far left bolt and
  attach the black DDCS ground wire under bolt. You should also mount the
  ground wire for the Dinan gauge panel on this boit.

   140. Remove the far right side boit (see previous step) and mount the
  yellow and brown ground wires under this boit.

  141. Use one or two wire ties to mount the pressure switch to the dash
  support bracket in a manner that will allow the reinstallation of the
  plastic glove box cover.

  142. Wire tie the wires in the glovebox area to keep them away from any
  moving parts.

  143. Set the Motronic ECU in position in compartment but don‘t secure
  with nuts yet.

   144. Notice the large rubber grommet that the ABS—ECU wire harness runs
  qough from the ECU compartment. Directly betow the ABS wiring on the
©    hgine side of grommet is a small rubber nipple pointing toward engine.
  Cut off this nipple to create a hole for some wires.

  145. Route the detonation sensor wires (black plastic steeve) around the
  left side of the Motronic ECU towards the small hole you just uncovered
  under the ABS wiring grommet.

  146. Route the green and orange wires from the T6 ECU up towards the                                                                     i
  small grommet hole also. These will be in a black sieeve.                                                                                s

  147. Tape the ends of the detonation sensor and T6 wires together using
  some plastic electrical tape. Spray some siticone spray lubricant into the
  small hole in grommet and on the end of the taped wires. Push wires
                                                                               nenrnnimmemerrerneoneimranemnpomenatmeponmotnantevietmmemnens snn

  through hote into engine compartment. Pull the slack wire through hole so
  wires route neatly to the grommet. Remember that the large ECU
  compartment cover will be reinstalled later, so route alt ECU compartment
  wiring accordingly.

148. Locate the Turbotronics 5 (TS) package from kit. The TS ECU mounts
in the main ECU compartment. The ECU should be positioned with the wire
harness pointing toward the engine and with the bottom front edge of ECU
resting on the top of the rear side of the ABS—ECU, Notice that the rear
side of the TS ECU will rest on the top of the relays. Attach one S—1/2"
long piece of fuzzy Velcro to the front bottom edge of the TS ECU. Attach
a 5—172" long piece of the grabbing Velcro to the appropriate spot on top
of the ABS ECU. Set the TS ECU in position on the ABS ECU and notice
where the relays touch the bottom of the TS ECU. Attach the remaintng
fuzzy piece to the bottom of the TS ECU to make a cushion between the ECU
and the relays.

149. You can now connect the red power wires for the DDCS harness, the
TS harness and the T6 harness to their power source. Lift up the T5
control unit to expose the main fuel infection relay. This relay is usually
white and has one red wire with a blue tracer connected to terminal #87
(center prong). Automatic cars will have two wires on this prong.

150. Cut one of these red/blue wires about 1" from the relay. Twist
together the stripped ends of the red DDCS power wire and the red/blue
wire that was cut from the relay red/blue wire. Crimp the yellow butt
connector onto these two wires.

151. Stide one 2°" long piece of 378" shrink thbmg over this yellow butt
connector onto the two wires.

152. Connect the stripped ends of the red/blue wire from the relay and the
red wires from the TS and T6 ECUs to the other end of the yellow butt

153. Stide the shrink tubing over the yellow butt connector and shrink the

154. Cut a 3" long plece of 3.Smm vacuum hose and connect it to the
vacuum hose nipple on the TS ECU,

195. Locate the nut that connects the plastic ECU wiring grommet support
piece to the aluminum ECU compartment housing. This will be a tOmm
head nut and it may have a black plastic cover on it. You will use this nut
for grounding the black TS and T6 ground wires. _

       56. Route the TS and T6 black ground wires up to the grounding nut and
          the wires to length. Crimp one 17/4" blue lug connector to each wire

      157. Remove the grounding nut.

      158. .Connect each wire nut end under the nut and tighten nut. —

     159. Remove the Motronic ECU from the ECU compartment.

     160. The nylon vacuum hose, the large green and white DDCS wires, the oil
     temperature sender wire (gauge panel) and the TS brown and yellow wires
     will all be routed through the same grommet as the Motronic ECU wires.
     This will bring the wires from the ECU compartment into the engine
     compartment. To get all of these wires through the grommet at the same
     time you will have to use a "snake" to pull them through. You can make a
     snake from a plece of stiff wire such as a coat hanger that is about one
     foot long. Bend back one end of your snake about 1—1/2" from end. Bend
     your wires and hose about 1—17/2" from each end. Interlock the snake bend
       §h the hose and wire bends and wrap the unton tightly with some smooth
 (      ectrical tape. Spray the wrapped connection generously with silicone
     spray lubricant. Push the bare end of the snake under the ABS wires,
     through the grommet until it comes out the other side. Push hard to get
     your snake under the grommet "collar" next to the Motronic wiring harness.
     Pull the wires and hose through grommet using up any unnecessary slack.

     161. Permanently install the Motronic ECU,

     162. Remove the snake from the wires and hose.
     163. You are now ready to connect the wires and vacuum hose in the
     engine compartment. The detonation sensor wires that you ran through the
     ABS grommet will need to be routed to the detonation sensor,. Avoid
     running these wires near any ignition parts or wiring such as ignition coil,
     coil primary and secondary wires and the DDCS green and white wires.
     Also avoid running any of the wires near the exhaust manifold,
     turbocharger and wastegate. Route the wires straight down from grommet
     then forward a long the whee! well to the spot where the large AC (air
     ‘jmomng) hose crosses over to AC compressor. Route wires along the
\_     rge AC hose then over to the detonation sensor. Do not wire tie the
     sensor wires to the upper metal portion of the AC Hines because you will
     bend these metal lines away from each other in a later step.

         64. Hold the sensor wires up to the detonation sensor allowing some                                                                kol
.        lack for engine movement. Now cut the wires about 4—1/2" past the point                                                            po
       where the wires meet the detonation sensor.

       165. Carefully remove about 5— 172" of the plasttc cover sleeve from the
       sensor wires.

        166. Twist together the bare shield wire and fold over double the last
        174" of this wire. Slide the 5—174" long piece of 178" shrink tubing down
       over the bare shield wire. Push the red 5716" hole wire lug into the piece
       of shrink tube with the shield wire going through the wire end of lug.
       Crimp the wire lug using plenty of force to tighten on this small wire.

        167. Shrink the tubing on the wire,

        168. Locate the Bosch type plug kit from the DDCS package.

        169. Cut 4—1/72" off of the two sensor wires from harness. Then strip
       about 178" of the insulation from the end of each sensor wire.

       170. Stide the 2— 172" tong piece of 378" shrink tubing over the bare
       shielded wire and sensor wires.

        171. Stide the small end of the black rubber boot over the two sensor
       wires then on up over the main insulated wire portton until the stripped                                                              —
       wire ends stick out of the large end of boot about 37/4". The bare shielding
       wire will not be coming out of the smaller end of boot.

       172. Use the correct type crimper for installing the two metal wire ends
       onto the ends of sensor wires. NOTE: This connection is extremely

                                                                                      vemvemmmprassmmnbomsmenninamanse rnuseme, mmmpemcex
       important. if you don‘t have the correct type crimper you should purchase
       one. This type crimper can be purchased from any major tool dealer such
       as Mac Tools or Snap—on. See inserted picture on Figure 3. Crimp both
       wire ends onto the two sensor wire ends. Pull on wire ends to check for
       positive connection.

      173. Push the wire ends into the back end of the plug with the locking
      tabs lined up with the siots. The wires can go into either hole since this
     .s not a polarity conscious connection. Slide rubber boot up to and over
(~     sack end of plug.

    .174. Stide the piece of shrink tubing about 1—17/4" over the small end of
,       ubber boot with the bare shield wire between the shrink tube and boot and    i
       pointing towards the plug. Now shrink the tubing in this position with        P
       heat gun or cigarette lighter.                                                & " L

       175. Connect the plug to the detonation sensor and install the shield wire
       under the sensor mounting nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 9 ft. lbs. or    ‘
       108 in tbs. Do not over tighten. The plug end of the sensor should point
       straight down and away from engine.

       176. Remove the two plastic nuts that connect the coolant reservoir to
       the firewall. Unplug the wire plug from the coolant level sensor. Pull the
       coolant reservoir forward to expose the main engine wiring harness and
       metal cover.

       177. Route the oxygen sensor wire harness up from the oxygen sensor
       behind the two AC lines. Pull harness back a little unt1l it meets with the
       existing wire harness that are above the two AC lines. Wire tie oxygen
       sensor harness in one spot where it first meets the above wiring
        arnesses leaving some slack to allow for engine movement. Lay the
L      oxygen sensor wire harness back towards the firewall for now.

       178. Refer to Figure 9 for connecting the green and orange T6 wires to the
      oxygen sensor harness.

       179. Cut the greeh and orange wires about 3" past the rubber grommet on
      the engine side of grommet.

      180. Use a razor blade or sharp knife to carefully make a 2" length wise
      cut in the outer steeve of the oxygen sensor wire harness, Just above the
      hole where the green and orange wires come through.

       181. Remove about 2" of the outer sleeve that covers the end of the green
      and orange wires.

      182. Cut the black oxygen sensor wire in preparation for splicing and strip
      about 378" of wire insulation off of both cut ends.

“183. Strip about 378" of insulation off of the ends of the green and orange

       184. Cut two 1" pieces of shrink tubing from the enclosed pleces of shrink
      tubing and stide one onto the green wire and one on the orange wire.

 IRES. Use the two non—insulated butt connectors from Turbotronics 6
    ckage to connect the green and orange wires exactly as shown in the
 curbotronics 6 diagram.

 186. Now solder the wires to the butt connectors to produce a positive
 connection which is very important since this is a very critical millivolt

 187. Slide the shrink tubing over the solder joints and shrink the tubing in

 188. Thoroughly wrap the spliced tee connection using etectrical friction

 189. Wire tie the oxygen sensor wire harness to the wire harnesses above
 the AC Hines then route it across the firewall on top of the main wiring
 harness cover. Run oxygen sensor wire harness down to its original mating
 plug at the lower left rear of engine block. Wire tie harness to the main
 wiring harness cover in about three spots. Connect oxygen sensor plug.

.90, Refer to Figure 9 for wiring the T6 brown and yellow wires. Run
 these wires along the same route as the oxygen sensor wire harness until
 you get to the spot directly behind the fuel injector wire rail. The cover
 for the injector wire rail should be off at this time.

 191. Find the spot in the bottom front of the plastic injector wire rail
where the two wires for the FI coolant temperature sender come up and
into rail. The wires are colored brown/red and brown/orange, on some
vehicles the second wire may be plain brown. Never cut the brown/red

192. Run the brown and yellow wires into the injector wire rail via the
large rubber sleeve for the main engine wire harness at rear of rail. Use a
small screwdriver to open up the hole where the wires for the idle control
valve go down into the rubber sleeve. Carefully route the brown and
yellow wires forward to the front of the wire rail.

       93. You may have to cut one of the small existing wire ties that hold the                                                        frea
.       ownZ/orange wire to the plastic rail to gain better access to the wire.                                                         Lo9
     Cut the brown/orange wire and slide one piece of shrink tubing onto each
     cut wire. Use the small non—insulated wire butt connectors to connect the
     brown and yellow wires exactly as shown in the Turbotronics 5 wiring
      diagram removing excess length if necessary. Solder both connections for
      a perfect fit then shrink the tubing over the solder joints using a heat gun
      or cigarette lighter.

     194. Position the wires in the injector wire rail so that the top can be
     replaced without obstruction. Replace wire rail top.

      195. Route the oil temperature sender wire down to the sender now if you
     are instailing a Dinan gauge panel.

      196. Refer to Figure 9 for wiring the T4 (DDCS) green and white wires.

      197. Remove the secondary ignition wire from the coll.

    ‘98‘ Remove the plastic wire cover from the top of the coil.

     199. Remove the wire from the negative side of the coll. Cut this wire
     about 1" from the connector.

     200. Route the green and white T4 wires to the coil avoiding the small                                                         |
     detonation sensor wires. Cut these wires to remove any excess length.                                                     1

     201. Use a blue butt connector to connect the cut off original wire and                                                        i
     connector to the white T4 wire with a 2" long piece of 3/ 16" shrink tubing
     on wire.                                                                                                                  j
     202. Slide the piece of shrink tubing over the connector and shrink the         .                                     j
     tubing.                                                                                                               i
                                                                                         enncmimner ies mmmmmemniereive nmnses on

     203. Connect the white wire and connector to negative side of coll.

     204 Use a blue butt connector to connect the green T4 wire to the cut
      riginal wire that went to the negative side of the coil, with a 2" piece of
      716" shrink tubing on wire.

     205. Slide the piece of shrink tubing over the connector and shrink i1t.

206. Replace the plastic coil cover and secondary wire.

207. Route the nylon vacuum hose across the rear of engine compartment
next to the oxygen sensor harness until youget to the spot where the
plastic injector rail is. Cut the nylon hose at this point.

208. Stip the 28" long plece of 178" vacuum hose on to the end of the nylon
hose about 3/4", Use a little saliva or liquid soap to accomplish this, do
not use any type of slippery or oily lubricants that will allow the hose to
pop off.

209. Route the 178" vacuum hose forward to the fuel pressure regulator.
Cut the vacuum hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator about 2"
from regulator.

210. Use a four—way vacuum tee from kit to connect the 178" vacuum hose
to the fue? regulator vacuum hose. Again a little saliva will help get the
hose onto the tee. The remaining leg of the tee will be for the compressor
bypass valve.

211. Replace the coolant reservoir and level sensor plug.

212. Use two of the 1" long pleces of 178" vacuum hose from the T4
hardware kit to connect the remaining four way vacuum tee to the nylon
vacuum hose where it goes through the ECU compartment. The two vacuum
legs will be for the TS and T6 ECUs,

213. Route the TS and T6 vacuum hoses to the four way vacuum tee and
cut hoses to correct length if necessary.

214. Connect hoses to tee.

215. Al connections for the T4, TS and T6 should now be complete. Leave
the ECU compartment cover off for now as you will need to test each
system for proper functioning before road testing.

216. Locate the large air conditioning (AC) hose that connects between
the top of the AC compressor and the firewall. Notice the holddown clamp
that holds this line to the frame rail. Unbolt and remove this holddown

    ‘; 7. The lower turbo inlet pipe will be coming up from the front of the
         rbocharger and then between the large and the small AC HNines as shown
       in Figure 15. You will have to bend the larger line toward the engine and                         :
      the smaller line toward the right front whee! well. You must be extremely                          |
      careful when bending these lines to make sure you don‘t let them bend
      where they meet the dual line coupler that is mounted to the ends of the
      metal lines that come from the interior of the car. Carefully read the
      tollowing steps before doing any bending.

      218. For bending the large AC line it is best to use two long pry bars. The
      key to bending the Hines is to support the straight section of each line as
      it comes out of the dual line coupler then do your bending on the forward
      portion of the ltines. If any bending occurs at the line coupler the rubber                                 —
      o—rings can be pushed out by the high pressure that is constantly in the                               xz
      lines, this destroys the o—ring and releases all the freon and a lot of the
      oil from AC system.

      219. To bend the large AC line first position pry bar #*1 about 1—1/2"
      forward of the line coupler on the engine side of line with the lower end of
        y bar against exhaust manifold. Position pry bar *2 on the wheel welil
:__side of large line at point where the line bends down with the lower end of
   pry bar against the frame rail. Use pry bar *1 to support line and keep it
      from moving toward engine and push the forward section of line toward
      engine as far as you can. You want to get the large line bent toward engine
      so that there is about 1 to 1—17/4" clearance between the plastic spark
      plug tube and the outer insulation on large linge at the point where the line                }
      is bent.                                                                                   z

      220. To bend the small line, position pry bar *1 about 2—1/2" forward of
      the line coupter on the wheel well side of line with lower end of pry bar
      against the bottom corner of the inner whee! well. Position pry bar #2 on
      the engine side of small line about 1" to 2" below the downward bent part
      of line with the lower end of pry bar against exhaust manifold. Support
      the section of line near the line coupter and bend the small line toward the
      whee! well until it touches the bottom of the ignition cotl and the
      extended lip on the side of the strut tower just below ignition coil. You
      should now have about a 3— 1/2" gap between the large and small lTine at
    .the spot where the inlet pipes will come through.

L     221. use three wire ties to tie the large AC line to the small AC line
      where they run parallel under the original airbox bracket above frame rail.
      Try to pull the large AC line forward before pulling wire ties tight.

222. Locate the upper and lower turbo inlet pipes, two 2" long 2—374"
silicone hoses and four #44 hose clamps. The lower turbo inlet pipe
connects to the front of the turbocharger then points up through the space
between the two AC lHines. With this position in mind slide one of the
2—3/4" silicone hoses onto the lower end of the lower turbo inlet pipe and
secure with one #44 hose clamp with clamp screw pointing up and on the
wheel well side of pipe, Slide another #44 hose clamp onto the hose with
the clamp screw in the same position as theexisting clamp. Place lower
inlet pipe assembly in position on the inlet throat of the turbocharger. Try
to position the lower inlet pipe so that the sificone hose connects straight
and square on the turbe inlet throat. Repositton the loose hose clamp so it
points up. Tighten the clamp using a 57 16" — 1/4" drive socket on a long
extension. Do not over tighten clamp.

223. Use the remaining 2" long 2—374" siticone hose and two #44 hose
clamps to connect the upper turbo inlet pipe to the lower turbo inlet pipe,
The upper turbo inlet pipe points forward with the small hose nipple
pointing towards the engine. Position the hose clamps so that they can
later be adjusted to help fit the upper turbo inlet pipe to the outlet throat
of the airflow meter.

224. Use Figure 15 to note the positioning of the airflow meter—airbox
assembly. Locate the airflow meter—airbox assembly, airflow meter
support bracket, the rubber airbox mount, one 6mm x témm bolt, three
6mm wave washers, one extra large 6mm flat washer and two émm nuts.
Mount the airflow meter support bracket to the threaded hole in the top of
the airflow meter as shown using the 6mm x 16mm boit and one 6mm wave
washer. Don‘t fully tighten nut yet.

225. Connect the rubber airbox mount to the lower end of the airflow
meter support bracket as shown using one 6mm wave washer and one 6mm

226. Stide the extra large 6mm flat washer onto the remaining 6mm stud
on the rubber airbox mount then one 6mm wave washer. Take one 6mm nut
and turn it onto the stud a few turns.                                      ’

227. Locate the two black rubber U—shaped rubber airbox mounts that
went between the original airbox and the airbox mounting bracket on right
inner fender well. These rubber mounts will either have stayed on the
airbox or atrbox bracket, or may even have fallen off. Place both of these
rubber mounts back into the airbox bracket and spray a little spray
silicone lubricant into the top slots of each mount.

 28. Locate the 2—37/4" to 3" straight betiow hose, one 444 hose clamp and
 ne #48 hose clamp. Slide the #44 hose clamp onto the top end of the
upper turbo inlet pipe. Stip the 2—37/4" to 3" beltiow hose onto the upper
turbo intet pipe. Place the #48 hose ctamp onto the larger end of bellow
hose. Leave clamps loose for now.

229. Set the new airflow meter—airbox assembly with the bracket and
rubber mount you installed, in position between the upper inlet pipe and
intercooler. See Figure 15. The steel strap mounted to the bottom of the
airbox rests in the two original rubber airbox mounts with the rubber
mount from the airfiow meter support bracket attached to the slotted
upper section of the original airbox bracket.

230. Connect the beliow hose between the inlet pipe and the airflow
meter with the #44 and #48 hose clamp already in place.

231. Locate the intercooler to throttle pipe. This is a long curved 2—1/4"
chrome pipe with one 1" nipple near one end. Also locate the 2—17/4" 45°
beliow hose, one 2—174" to 3" stlicone hose, three #32 hose clamps and one
   4 hose clamp. This pipe mounts between the throttle body and the
 ntercooter qutlet pipe. Connect the end of pipe with the 1" nipple to the
throttle body using the 2—174" to 3" composite hose, one #44 hose clamp
and one *32 hose clamp. Connect the other end using one 2—1/4" 45°
beltow hose and two #*32 hose clamps. Adjust pipe so that there is at
least a 174" gap between the pipe and, both the airflow meter and bellow
hose for the upper inlet pipe. Tighten hose clamps.

232. Find the idle control valve to turbo pipe hose from kit. This is a
1—374" long piece of 1" 1.D. hose. Also find two #16 hose clamps. Use this
hose to connect the idle control vaive to the intercooler to throttle pipe.
Adjust the valve so there is at least a 174" gap between the valve plug and
the cootant reservoir. Tighten hose clamps.

233. Locate the PCV hose assembly from kit. Also locate one #12 hose
clamp. The larger end of this hose connects to the valve cover using the
original hose clamp to secure. The smaller end of the hose goes to the
hose nipple on the turbo upper inlet pipe. Use the #12 hose clamp for the
 maller end of the hose. Attach the small vacuum hose that you previously
 isconnected from the original PCV hose to the small vacuum hose nipple
on the barbed coupler. The vacuum hose nipple points straight down.

    4. Locate the turbo to intercooler pipe from kit. Also locate four #32
    se clamps and two 2— 17/4" bellow composite hoses. This pipe connects
  Jetween the lower inlet pipe of intercooler and the discharge pipe of the   :
  turbo compressor. Try to center the pipe between the AC compressor and      h
  the right side motor mount. Position the hose clamps so that the clamp
  screws are easily accessible.

 235. Locate the compressor bypass valve assembly, two #16 hose clamps
 and the remaining tong piece of 3.Smm vacuum hose. This assembly
 mounts between the 1" hose nipple on the turbo to intercooler pipe and the
  1" hose nipple at the bottor of the turbo lower inlet pipe. Mount the
 assembly with the bypass vaive near the turbo to intercooler pipe. Make
 sure the plastic valve has sufficient clearance between it and all other
 parts. Secure assembly with the two #16 hose clamps.

 236. Connect the vacuum hose to the four way tee at fuel regulator.

 237. Route the vacuum hose down from the four way vacuum tee to the
 compressor bypass valve keeping the hose safely away from moving parts.
.t to proper length and connect to bypass vaive. Wire tie the vacuum hose
  n place but don‘t make wire ties tight.

 238. Run the airfiow meter plug wire harness along the back side of the
 PCV hose then forward to the airflow meter . Snap on the plug, then use
 three eventy spaced wire ties to attach the wire harness to the PCV hose.
 Please keep the airfiow meter wires away from the spark plug wires to
 prevent the electromagnetic field from disturbing the normal functioning
 of airfiow meter.

 239. Locate the 3" exhaust downpipe. This mounts to the back of the
 turbocharger using three 378" x 1" boits, one 378" x 1—1/4" bolt and four
 lOmm knurted lock washers. This is the correct hardware for turbo
 exhaust housings with four holes threaded with 3/8" NC thread.

 Occastonally we use turbochargers with four holes that are drilled out
 larger then 378°. For these you will need three 378" x 1—1/4" bolits, one
 378" x 1—172" boit, four 1Omm knurled lock washers, four 10mm copper
&knuts and one *16 hose clamp. Before mounting, the downpipe must
   st be held in the correct installed position to determine where you
  ight need to gain more downpipe to chassis clearance.

   old the four hole flange up to the turbo outlet flange pressing mating          .
   urfaces together. Measure the center to center distance between the          tw
  transmiission and outlet end of the downpipe, this measurement must be        e
  8—1/2". Measure from the bottom center rib of the transmisston to the         £oC.
  center of the outlet end of downpipe.                                                j

  with the downpipe held in this position check to see where the large 3"
  downpipe either touches or is less than 1/2" away from any chassis
  insulation piece. Use a large hammer to beat back the insulation to gain a
  minimum clearance of 1/2",

  240. Locate the turbo support bracket, tOmm x 100mm boit, two tOmm
  wave washers and one 10mm nylock nut. Remove the lower right
  transmission belt housing boit that screws into the slightly extended
  piece of the right rear end of engine block. This is a Torx head boit.

  241. Install the lOmm x 100mm bolt from kit with 1Omm wave washer
  into the bolt hole you must removed the bolt from. This longer bolt will
  protrude past the threaded portion of block. The protruding part of the
.olt will be the lower mounting point for the turbo support bracket.

  242. Apply a little copper antisieze compound to the downpipe boit
  threads. Install the downpipe on the turbo without installing a bolt in the
  lower left hole yet. Leave the boits slightly loose for now. The three
  shorter boits will be used now. Align the wastegate dumppipe flex tube
  with the small inlet pipe on downpipe with a #16 hose clamp on inlet pipe.

  243. Wwhen using the non—threaded type turbo housing it is easy to install
  the two top copper locknuts and knuriled washers if you this simple
  method: Apply a little contact cement to the inside jJaws of a 14 mm 60°
  offset open end wrench. Now apply a little contact cement to the outside
  of two of your tOmm copper locknuts. Glue one 1Omm knurtled washer to
  the larger end of each nut. Let nuts and wrench sit for about 5 minutes to
  allow cement to dry partially.

  You can now stick the nut/washer assembites into you wrench to hold them
  in place while you run the bolt through the downpipe flange and the turbo
‘utlet flange.

       44. Hold the turbo support bracket in position between the transmission
       olt and the lower left hole of the downpipe. The thicker end of the
      bracket goes to the engine block. Install the remaining longer boit through
      the turbo support bracket and the lower left downpipe flange hole. Don‘t             ho
      fully tighten boit yet. .                                                            Pos

      245. Secure the lower end of the turbo support bracket using one 10mm
      wave washer and 1Omm nylock nut.

      246. Check the center to center distance between the transmission center
      rib and the center of the downpipe outlet tube. This measurement should
      be 8—1/2", adjust downpipe accordingly. Fully tighten downpipe boits.

      247. The wastegate flex tube should be now at least 1/2" onto the inlet              se
      pipe on downpipe. Position the #16 hose clamp over the lower end of the              No
      steel flex hose and tighten clamp.

      248. Refer to Figure 16 for cutting the catalytic converter inlet pipes.
      These should be cut right at the rear edge of the inlet pipe insulation. This
        t should be made straight and square. You can cut the inlet pipes using a
/.     yand saw, hack saw or fiberglass cutting disc held in a rotary die grinder.
      You may want to unbolit the resonator from the catalyst to make the
      catalyst more mobile. You will not be reusing the long inlet pipes.

      The fuel injection system for this turbo system is specifically
      suited for use with the original catalytic converter. Any
      attempt to run the car without the catalyst in the exhaust wiil
      result in a lean fuel mixture under boost situations that will
      damage your engine from excess heat and possible detonation.
      The boost level is also determined by exhaust flow and the
      wastegate used in this system will only work properly with the                   t
      catalyst in the exhaust system.                                                 20
      it is imperative that all steps in these instructions are
      followed precisely using all of the stated equipment and parts.                  |
      Failure to comply with these instructions will result in the
      voiding of the warranty on the turbo system parts against
       efects. Not complying with these instructions will also
     “event your car from being smog legal which will prevent you
       rom getting your car registered.

      Clean air is good for everybody, so do your share and maintain
      all emtsston control systems as Iinstructed.

249. Sand the cut ends of the catalyst inlet pipes square (90°) and flat.
Remove any burrs.

250. Use a wire wheel or some sand paper to remove the heat scale from
the two intet pipes in preparation for welding.

251. Reconnect the catalyst to the resonator using the original boits and
four new Smm copper lock nuts with four new &mm knurled washers.

252. Reinstall the catalyst—resonator assembly in car using a screw Jack
to support the catalyst for now. The catalyst should be about 1/2" to 374°
away from the transmission support bracket at its closest point.

253. Place the exhaust Y—pipe between the 3" exhaust flange and the
catalyst inlet pipes. You will probably have to grind the Y—pipe a little to
get a perfect fit between the flange, Y—pipe and catalyst. Sand or grind
the Y—pipe to achieve a good fit without gaps.

254. The catalyst inlet pipes are made of stainless steel and therefore
the ¥—pipe must be welded in place using a TIG or MIG welder. Trying to
weld this Y—pipe with an acetylene torch would be a big mistake with
extremely poor results. Check to see that the exhaust system fits
property in car with sufficient ctearance between the catalyst and the
under body insulation. The muffier tatipipes must also be level.

Carefully tack weld the Y—pipe in position on car. Wwhen you have the
¥—pipe tack welded to the flange and catalyst with at least three 1/2" long
welds per joint you can remove the exhaust system from the car and
complete the welds.

255. Clean off any heat scale from Y—pipe that may have developed during
the welding process using some sandpaper.

256. Use some high heat spray paint to paint the ¥—pipe to protect the
plece from rust. Use at least two good coats of paint.

257. Reinstall the exhaust system using the 3" flange gasket, three 8mm x
2S5mm bolts, three 8mm knurled washers and three 8mm copper lock nuts,

258. Reinstall the original transmission to exhaust hanger assembly. If
the exhaust system is now a little higher than its original position you
may need to slot the left hole of the transmission bracket up a little to
allow the other end of bracket to rige up.

                                                                                cmemegages .

 69. Reinstall the tubular chassis brace and front sway bar braces.

‘ _00. Reinstall the front sway bar.

  261. Start engine and let idle. Check over the engine from the top and
  bottom for any water, fuel, ofl or vacuum leaks. Correct as necessary.

  262. Listen closely for any abnormal notses. Shut off engine and correct
  problem if necessary.

  263. Testing the Turbotronics 4 system: Plug the light bar display tester
  into the small female plug jack on the control unit. Peel back the duct
  tape on the T4 pressure switch and disconnect one of the brown wires to
  simulate boost conditions. Start engine. Take a medium size hammer and
  tap engine block somewhere near the detonation sensor. The first few
  lights on the display should briefly flicker and the engine speed should
  momentarily drop slightly. This indicates that the system is functioning
  property. if nothing happens, recheck all connections or call Dinan
  Engineering for further assistance if necessary.

( gét. Reconnect the brown wire to the T4 pressure switch and cover with
   the duct tape. Start engine. Tap the engine block in the same location
   with the same amount of force required to make the display light flicker
  on the first test. The display lights should remain off during this test.
 This indicates that the system is functioning propertly. If any lights come
 on, recheck all connections or call Dinan Engingeering for further
 assistance if necessary. Proceed if system is operating normally.

 and |
 These tests must be done with the engine up to normal operating

 265. Remove the small CO plug from the exhaust manifold next to the
 oxygen sensor. Install a BMW type exhaust probe adaptor in the manifold
 (&mm x 1.00mm thread). Connect an exhaust gas analyzer to the exhaust
 manifold adaptor.

    6. Locate or make a modified radiator pressure testing pumper or other
  uitable device that is capable of creating and holding pressure up to about
  10 PSI.

    7. Start the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes or until the
\®@gine is brought back to normal operating temperature. Observe the CO
 content of the exhaust gas. This should be about .03% to .08% CO depending
 on the car and the accuracy of your analyzer. Write down this reading to
 be used as the normal reading. If your car is not in this range, you should
 check the calibration of your analyzer and the T6 wiring. The oxygen
 sensor must be connected for this test. If your car fails to fall into this
 range you should call Dinan Engineering at (415}) 962—9417 for further          (

 268. With engine still running, disconnect the vacuum hose from the T6
 ECU and quickly plug the hose. The idle CO should not vary more than about

 269. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the four way tee for the TS ECU and
 use the vacuum plug cap from kit to plug off the leg of tee.

 270. Try to do this step fairly quick to prevent harming catalyst with rich
 mixture, Connect your pressure pumper to the TS ECU hose and pump your
     per to 5 to 6 PSI and hold it there. The CO should go up significantly.
  ~CO does go up, go immediately to next step. If CO does not rise, please
 check your setup to see if you followed the test procedure correctly. Also
 recheck the TS wiring. If necessary, call Dinan Engineering for further

271. Wwith the pressure tester still on the TS ECU hose, immediately
reconnect the T6 vacuum hose to the four way tee. The CO should come
back down to the original normal reading of about .03% to .08% depending
on your analyzer and car. If the CO does not come back down then please
recheck test procedure and if necessary, call Dinan Engineering for further
assistance. Shut off engine.

These tests are extremely important because not only are these systems
responsible for gaining maximum horse power, but they also are vital
components that help to protect your engine from damage and unnecessary
wear. Be accurate and careful when following the test procedures. Please
don‘t hesitate to call Dinan Engineering if anything is not correct or clear.

   2. Reconnect the TS and T6 vacuum hoses and disconnect exhaust               on
«nalyzer.                                                                        :

    mual transmisston cars:

 Maximum boost pressure is 10 PSI. Find a straight level road free of
 traffic and get the car rolling at about 25 MPH and put 1t in fourth gear.
 Hold it at about 2000 RPM and then open the throttle all the way. Set the
 boost pressure at 10 PSI between 3500 and 4000 RPM. If at any time more
 then 2 lights light up on the display or the boost pressure exceeds 10 PSI
 immedifately back out of the throttle. Make a boost pressure adjustment
 and try the test again. Turn the wastegate adjusting screw clockwise to
 increase boost or counter clockwise to reduce boost pressure.

 We suggest having an assistant ride with you when road testing to watch
 the boost gauge and light bar display tester. This will allow you to watch
 the road and concentrate on driving.

 Dinan Engineering does not suggest or condone driving faster
than the posted speed limit on any public road or operating a
Wicle in an unsafe manner.

‘ ..nen boost pressure is set correctly no more than two lights should Tight
 up on light bar display tester. If you are getting too many lights, run car
 down to 1/8 of a tank of fuel, without going into boost. Then fill the tank
 with the best quality unleaded fuel available to you. Perform the test
 again. If you still get too many lTight call Dinan Engineering for specific
 tests which can be run to determine the problem.

 If your car passes all of the tests, you may now remove the light bar
 display tester and replace the glovebox cover. Check over the car again for
 any leaks, loose bolts or loose fittings.

 273. Replace the ECU compartment cover.

274. Locate the chrome DINAN trunk badge from kit. You will notice that
we carefully designed this badge to match the original emblems as close
as possible. See Figure 17 for position of the trunk badge.

                                                                                 19itfiiGiisbes, 1 L.

    75. Use a little "wax and siltcone remover" or mild window cleaner on a
    Mean rag to prepare the painted surface of the left rear surface of trunk
   tid for badge instatlation.

   276. Use a soft pencil or non—permanent marking felt pen to make a very
   light horizontal line 11716" above lower edge of trunk lid. Measure 157 16"
   over from the left edge of trunk lid on the 117/16" line.

   277. Pull off the backing membrane from the badge,

   278. Carefully line up the badge with your marks and let the badge touch
   the trunk tid, Check badge for straightness, then press on entire length of
   badge for permanent instaliation. Excessive pressure is not necessary for
   affixing badge and may result in damage to the badge. Be careful to line up                                                           {
   badge correctly before installation since the adhesive backing is designed
   for one use only.
  *unning boost too high may cause engine surging, loss of power and                                                                     ;
|    armful engine detonation. If at any time detonation is heard, contact                                                               j
    Dinan Engineering for technical assistance. Detonation can cause severe                                                              £
   engine damage. Run only top grade unleaded premium fue} in your Dinan                                                                 |
   Engingering turbe powered car. THIS IS A MUSTI


   Every 2500 miles change the oil and filter in your engine. Periodically
   check all boits, hoses and clamps for tightness. A turbo stresses a vehicle
   more, so more service is required. It is recommended that minor services                                                        i
   be done at 5000 and major services at 10,000. For any technical                                                                 ;
   assistance call Dinan Engineering at (415) 962—9417 between 9:00 am and               .
   430 pm, Pacific Coast time, Monday through Friday.                                                                              :
                                                                                               emmermmenmmittuntzencecmmenprnsny ns on

                            SPECIAL INSTRUCT IO0NS

   As with all turbocharged engines, you should always allow the exhaust
   manifold and turbocharger to cool down to normal temperatures before
   shutting engine off. This is easily done by always remembering to make
   your last five minutes of driving (before shutting off engine) be done at
   light throttle without excess speed or boost. Merely idiing the engine
   after hard boosting doesn‘t allow enough airflow through the exhaust
   manifold to help cool it down. Shutting off the engine with the manifold
   and turbocharger really hot will damage the turbocharger by baking the of1
   in it into a rock hard substance known as "coke".

   Always allow engine to idle for 30 seconds to one minute after normal
   driving to allow the turbocharger turbine shaft speed to return to its
   normal idling speed. During boost the turbine speed will reach over
   100,000 RPMs! The turbocharger is lubricated and cooled with engine ofl
   and will easily last the life of the engine if simple steps are taken to
   protect it.

     u should also avoid running the engine hard until it has warmed up which
<oois true of all cars and especially true of turbe cars.

   Street turbos are designed to run in boost for only short bursts. If you are
   at a race track or on a very long section of road that enables you to run
   boost almost continuously, lift off occastonally for several miles allowing
   the engine to dissipate heat. If you are planning to run the car in this                      t
   manner frequently, we recommend the following additional modifications                        £

   to ensure long life; oil cooler and larger capacity radiator. Running the
   car from zero to its top speed at constant full throttle is something we
   would not recommend.                                                                         6.
                                                                                  oborcompmntema nz

Figqure 1         Cutting off corner of distributor cover.
                  Mark cover with scribe according to measurements.
                  (See dotted lines.)


                     |3 E
            {        zl         /                                 END
            \’I             1                                     VIEW

                    FIGURE 2           OIL DRAIN HOLE

5       +C    67                                ENGINE BLOCK
3        ——    .
‘g                  ~—\    @             | a~

<Ee                              o _V


                          MEASURE FROM THE LOWER
                          NACH') EDGE OF ENGINE BLOCK

                         privunc J   bcrivnAliun StnouUr LULAEIUINN

                         RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE BLOCK

                                                   RIGHT SIDE
                                                  MoTOR MOUNT

DETONATION SENSOR WIRE                                                AC
                                            las                       CO   Hpressor
                                            r@ am

                                     DETONATION SENSOR

               FILTER HOUSING

                       WASHER BOTTLE CLEARANCE

                            + T
                      4—-'1—       \\

POWER STEERING _                                             LEFT FRONT
FLUID RESERVOIR                                              WHEEL WELL

                     FIGURE 6   CUTTING ALIGNMENT TAB
                     FROM THE WINDSHIELD WASHER


         \_   _s—
               — 2      CUT OFF ALIGNMENT TAP
                        EVEN WITH BOTTLE

                                                    FIGURE 7   CUT LEFT PLASTIC COVER AS SHOWN.
                                                                 CUT ON DOTTED LINES ONLY.
ohchsadtAealinfidietenc onmrmam mesences ces oo .


                            EEouU UV
                     —                                                                                           <
Z7             Z_7                 L.]
                                                                  LOWER INTERCOOLER
                                                                      BRACKET         INTERCOOLER                    (

                            LEFT FRONT FRAME RAiL                       ©      0|©                          UPPER


                                         C     AIRBOX BRACKET       V

                                   !fi_\_/_\                                                  """"""""

                                                                MIDDLE INTERCOOLER
                  ;—fl                                              BRACKET      \

                         INTERCOOLER DISCHARGE PIPE
                         CUTAWAY TO SHOW MIDDLE
                         INTERCOOLER BRACKET POSITION

                                                   dninteruintiihe ce                            voene cbemtnannine n cominscnicaretladien

                                                                                                                wins CoLon8
                                              FIGUAE 9                                                         BL.
                                                                                                               GE      YELLOW
                                           wIRING OIAGRAM                                                      GN       GREEN
                                                                                                               GR        GRAY
                                                                                                               OR      ORANGE
                                                                                                               RS        PINK
                                                                        MA IN                                  AT         RED
BO0OST    SPIKELSW                                                      REL                                    sw
      conTrRoL                                                           878                                   ws       WHITE

        __SW.___—eGROUND                                                                                                                     *

 n                                                                               1                    &
 w                                        Sw
                                        —_—_SW—e GROUND                                               m
 U         coolant                        AT

 2o        senson          t6 ft———————                                                   epousnGAOUND a

            T                    oxYGeEen                                                                                                    sw _|
 6               o         7                   sewnsom                   .       [                                                           at

 &               &         &                   al §2)8                                                    us

         6e                |—                                                          DET
 P            i            o        |   on                                           senson             SV
        L_B8Bs             C            4                                                               BARE
                     ~     3    ;         GN
                     8     +                   '                                     GRAOouNntp o&—
              &                                                              _
              o                                                              m
              A                                                              ~
              C                                                              i
              ®                                x                             C

                                                                             37                                          i
                         BME              moTRONIC              CONTROL              UNIT

                                                          FRONT      _                   rIGURE to

                                                                                        5351 and 735i ONLY


                           STRUT TOWER
    ENGINE           ,/

                      |___—BLACK PLASTIC COVER

                            "X" MARKS SCREW LOCATIONS


                                                                              —<      ABS ECU

                                                             C—______]            «   CRUISE CONTROL ECU

                                                                             —<       MOTRONIC ECU
5351 and 7354 ONLY

                                                                         BLACK PLASTIC wIRE PROTECTOR

   FIGURE 11

                                                                         FIGURE 14
     FIGURE 13
                                  PRY THIS WAY UNTIL CLIP POPS UP
 :                        <
                                e— C._L
                                          * gim .


‘                          3
                          w\                                                             }       CHIP
                                                                    . MAKE SURE pivots       i   \L     J,
                                                                     ARE ALIGNED

        TOP VIEW          SIDE VIEW



                SMALL AC

                                          AIRFLOW METER
                                          SUPPORT BRACKET

                FIGURE 15 AIRFLOW METER
                AIRBOX AC LINES



                   INLET PIPES

Figure 17 Dinan Trunk Badge Placem nt

                                     Turbo System Parts
                                         89—> 5351
                                      BB—> 7351,735iL

        Oty. Part Number          Description

         1    ©300—0400 Turbo exhaust manifold assembly
         1    D310—0102 Turbocharger assembly
         1    D330—0200 Intercooler
         1    D360—0120 3" Exhaust downpipe
         1    D360—0127 3" Catalyst y—pipe
         1    0321—0100 Wastegate
         I 3.5L2VM3.1/2 Turbo Power chips
         I    D400—0 110 Air flow meter/Air filter box assembly
         1    04S50—0252 Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator
         6    D410—0101 Turbo fuel injectors
          1   D360—0121 Wastegate dumppipe assembly
          1   0470—0 105 Compressor bypass vaive assembly
          1   D3S0—0116 Turbo upper inlet pipe
    0     ;   ©3S0—011S Turbo lower inlet pipe
‘         1   D3S0—0 112 Turbo to intercooler pipe
          1   ©350—0113 Intercooler to throttle pipe
          1   D610—0115 Turbo support bracket
           I  D610—0 114 Lower intercooler bracket
           1  D610—0113 Middle intercooter bracket
           1  D610—0 112 Upper intercooler bracket
           1  D610—0110 Air flow meter support bracket
           1  D620—0 105 Idle control vailve to turbo pipe hose
           1  D620—0 125 PCV hose assembly—manual trans.
           1  D690—0 100 Windshield washer wiring harness
            1 D370—0110 17" long —4 wastegate hose with straight ends
            1  D310—01 11 45" long —4 otler hose with straight ends
            1  ©390—0104 3—1/2" tong 5/78" 1.0. oil return hose
            1  p710—0100 DINAN decklid badge

         WHERE APPLICABLE (see satesman) the following items.
         1 12 90 1 716 926 Rubber duct for ECU wiring (1990—> only)
    .     1           D420 0101     Light bar display testor   (SEE SALESMAN)

         OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT the following items
              1       D              High flow mufffer kit      (SEE SALESMAN)
                  1   ©490—5351     Gauge panel                 (SEE SALESMAN)

                                     NTR AVtentmeneamecmm mm s n


*48 hose clamp
#a44 hose clamps
*32 hose clamps
*16 hose clamps
*10 hose clamps
3/8" x 1—1/2" boit
3/8" x 1—1/4" bolts
 3/78" x 1" bolts
Bmm x 25mm boits
6mm x 25mm boit
 bmm x 1t6mm boits
 +Omm knurled washers
 10mm wave washers
 8mm wave washers
 gmm knurled washers
 6mm wave washers
 6mm flat washers
 6mm X—large flat washers
  Bm copper lock nuts
  1Omm copper lock nuts
  6mm nuts
  mm nuts (13mm heads)
  1Omm nylock nut
   1Omm head sheet metal screws
  6mm nylock nuts
                                       e, yellow, violet, blue
   13" long pieces of 20 Ga. wire—whit
   1" long pieces of 178" shrink tubing
   3 1/4" long pieces of 378"° shrink tub
    16" long piece of 3/8" shrink tubing
    2" tong piece of 3/8" shrink tube
    Yellow butt connector
   8" long wire ties
  . 14" wire ties

                            LOCATION OF ELECTRONICS                                  io.
                                  65—87 7551                           FIG 13        i

                                       the detonatior    sontrol unit gets
                                       Aounted to the ingide of the glovs

                                       box as shown

es and               |—~                sensor vlire for LEDCS goes throug!
£2e fo:                                 rubber grommet on large AC line

aicss &




                                                          poost     line for sie——
                                                          tromnics must tee
                                                          into vacuum lins

                                                          n fuel pressyre

                                             _                 0
                                         °_ RADIATOR           z

5                                 to DEDCS        coolant temperaturse
t                                                          4          4.


                                                       (blue plug)

                                             large red wire w/blue stripe

                                       => t
                                                 ~~   ~
                                                          hi  to
                                                                       qyrsms       FIT   :



                                    RED .         0
 IGSNITION COIL                            IGNITION ON         &
                                       (RED WIRS Y/BLUE STRIPE}

                                                                 "*~" vac/pres
                                                  NC PRESSURE SWITCH


                                                                           @) betronntic
               L               BROWN                                       4 sensor
         CHASSIS                   -      cHASSsIS       >
                                             1                                    SENSOR PL
                                   YELLOW     _

                               THZ DHLV <prppIMG TOODI THAT HILI Pronucr

               FIGURE 15
                                 USE THE EXISTING THREADED—»    @
                                 HOLE FOR SENSOR MOUNTINS               <¢— DETONATION
                                 (ON CARS WITH 2 HOLES, USE
                                  THE HOLE CLOSEST TO #3 AND
                                  #4 CNLINDERS)                  U

                       ENGINE BLOCK

                                                   ATTACH SENSOR                  ACG
                                                   SHIELD WIRE HERE—>             COMPRESSOR

                                                                                                    to manifold vacuum

cooiant              brown/red                 (do not cut)

                                                                                                                                                                (uosli4s davii) § SPIHOUL O@HUANI Hod ilWlovid SilldIl.
 temp .                         &          C     la                   Ae
sensor,              |Pr2°n                    ‘8 0           brown

* Sometimes                                                                                     brown
 gvvuwyéwufigg                                                                                   L                                              , MAP,
                                                                                                ced                                            SENSOR
                                                                  1                             black

                                                                           to large red wire with blue stripe
                                                                           in ECU wiring harness


                                        ground along with black wire
                                        rrom   DCS on right kicksanel

                                                                                                                                                                                        C 9T
  nntnane rompirtmtenneman aacnent se vure sn nemeghns o                         hn memnirntrtrmnnrermortemmummmeonnecrsn smmenomnnmernnemmmnyieminn e mrns n

1 7

                                          To Fectory Wiring Harness

                                                                              +12 Volt "Keyed"

                                                                              OH in "Run" and "Crank"
                                                                a             OFF in "Oorf"

                                                                    |§                   +              =. Chassis Ground

                                                      A=   g&       3m

                                                              CREEN                           rED            BLACK       TurBO
                                                            CUT                                _         :           g—: Tourss
                                                                @        1
                                                                         ~OfAfigr                                          6
                                                                ts                             Manifold Vac/Press—»—


‘‘rIg.;§b          Auto Shift Boost Spike Control Schematic

                                             compressor by—nass valve
fuel nrossure rerulator

tee—in lines,             .
keeping them                     .
2" apart

                                                         auto—shift boost
                                                         stike controller
                                                         {no polarity)

 to ECU area —————>»
 (see text for
  further info.)

                                            PCV hose

                                   Mimrmenscnaee mt vvmmcmsntmenco .

                                             d Connection
           Supplement a l uasteqatc Mnni Fal
                             and adjustmcent proceedure

                                     Prnssufe Adjusting Screw
           ~      %(/_——                                                and Lock Nut

                                      Clockwise = Higher Boost Pressu.
                           Counter—Clockwise = Lower, Boost Pressur

                                                     Vent Hole —     Leave this hoi
                                                     open to—~the athosphere

                                                                         Connect Line from
                                                                       Intake Manifold Eo:her


iust Out


                                    Shipping Check—Off List
                                     88—89 GS5CSi Stage 1

             Bag & Label: ~IDLE CONTROL VALVE HOSE"
            1             idte control valve hose *D620—0 105
            1             *10 hose clamp
            2             *12 hose clamp

                1         LAGEL: Turbocharger assembly #*D310—7357

                1         LABEL: Airflow meter «D400—0115

            Bag & Label: ~"OIL FITTINGS & HARDWARE~
                          *8 hose clamps
wa —» N) NJ bJ — o — NY

                          oil return flange and fitting #0610—0 120
                          3—1/2" piece of 578" 1.D. blue silicone haose #©0390—0 104
                          flange gasket "©D311—0201
                          378" x 1—178" bolts
                          10mm flat washers
                          1tOmm wave washers
                          45° fitting *©D381—0121
                          178" pipe to ~4 striaght fitting #©D371—0120

                          LABEL: exhaust manifold *Dp300—0300

                          Bag & Label: "EXHAUST MANIFOLD HARDWARE"
                12        8mm exhaust studs *D670—0100
                12        Amm copper locknuts
                12        8mm knurled washers
                          gaskets ©D530—0220
                          10 mm copper locknuts
                          i0mm knurled washers

                          BA6 & LABEL: "IASTEGATE HARDWARE"
                          t0Omm copper locknuts
                          knurled washers

                          LABEL: Wastegate *D3206—0100

                                                                            wipn ie o+
      i       downpipe
—                _Z          A                              ~
     3        378" x 1—174" bolts
     1        378" x 1—7716" bolts
     4        10mm copper locknuts
     4        i0mm knurled washers

     L                107.                      =   *           =      2.

                      29         T              _

     2        378" x 1—17/4" bolts
     2        10mm copper locknuts
     2        10mm knurled washers
     2        *®16 hose clamps
     1        1—174" x 7" piece of stainless flex tubing *D363—O217

              LABEL: ~¥ PIPE *0360—0127"

     Bag & Label: "3 HOLE FLANGE & HARDWARE~
     1        3 hole 2—172" gasket ©D530—0225
     1        2—172" exhaust flange #0D361—0400
     3        8mm x 2Smm bolts
     3        8mm copper locknuts
     3        Bmm knurled washers

     1                           ressor   by—           *           —0 1

    2 *16 hose clamps
    1 45" piece of black vacuum hose *O393—O119
    1 vacuum "T" ©D381—0262

     1        turbo support bracket *D610—0124
     1    .   1tOmm x 3Omm boit
     2        toOmm flat washers
     1        {Omm wave washer

1        line
1        LABEL: AZC lTine #0D570—0510

1        LABEL: AZC linge *#*0570—0520

1        LABEL: AZC line *0570—0530

1        hood shock mount *D610—9135
4        gmm flat washer
1        8mm locknut
1        6.9 X 20— 10mm hex head SCREWS W/ROTATING WASHERS

]                    _         Lj     —_

1        LABEL —4 wastegate hose *D370—0100

1        LABEL ~intercooler *D330—0110"~"

    a   abel:; ~I          ER H            ind
3         rubber mounts *©D611—0100
6         gmm nuts
6         omm wave washers
6         Omm flat washers

Ba      abel; "I         R      P                *D610—0136"

    a       .   La                                   ’   _   2s

1        trans. to exhaust bracket *D360—0142

1        rubber mount *D610—0 125
1        6mm nylok nut
1   '    6mm flat washer

    a       1cA                                  *
2        small black sheet metal screw with large head

1        2—37/4" to 3" *D340—0330
1        2—174" straight bellows *D340—0400
1        2—17/4" 45° bellows ©D340—0560
1        2—174" to 3" ©0D340—0270
1        2—17/4" 45° non—bellows type ©D340—0500
2        2—374" STRAIGHT 2"LONG *©D340—0150
2        #48 hose clamps
S        #44 hose clamps
7        #*32 hose clamps

1       throttle*PD350—Q1094

1        LABEL:    URBO DIS                 TQ   i           *   =—

1              .            STING                *   —

F              —              t         P        #   —

1              1     flo            1                    *   —

3       6mm nuts
4       6mm flat washers
4       6mm wave washers
1       6bmm x 1Smm boit
1       Emm x 20mm bolt
1       6mm large flat washers

1       check valve ©0620—0110
1        1—124" pieces of small vacuum hose *D393—0110

3 378" long black sheet metal Screws

2       6.9 xX 20—10mm hex head SCREWS W/ROTATING WASHERS

 6         A    1_"~               1               *    =—

 1        LABEL: "TURBO FUEL. PRESSURE REGULATOR"                       is

 1        LABEL: ~"TURBOTRONICS 3 {(CHIP3"                              i


 1         G & L        ; ~"TURBOTRONIC            AS        P SENSOR
          8D4flg_9599"                          >

     10   BAG & LABEL: "TURBOTRONICS 6 ASSEMBLY *D440—0600


 1         RESSURE     PLATE   *       1—011

1 PCY HOSE ASSEMBLY *p6e20—0 '
 1        #*6 THIN HOSE CLAMP



 BRG & LABEL: "PCY   hos                     *         Tl
 1        PCV HOSE ASSEMBLY *©D620—0 140
 1        *6 THIN HOSE CLAMP


                          1988—069 635i Stage 1                                  t

Before you so much as loosen a clamp, reed the entire instruction menual,
look at all the figures and make sure you understand it thoroughly. It is
very important that you install the kit in the order of the instructions.
Much time has been taken to ensure that nothing will be done twice
because another part "should have gone on first". If you do the kit out of
sequence you can be ossured it will toke much longer and your new parts
won‘t look new after coming back off a few times. Another word of
INSTALLED. You will just end up cutting them loose and wasting a lot of
time and tie wraps.


1. Disconnect negativebattery cable.

2. Remove air flow meter/filter box assembly and right headlight access

3. Remove right headlight access cover and flexible breather hose.           f
Remove large windshield washer reservoir and pump. Remove charcoal
canister and bracket. Make a note as to which hose goes on which nipple.

4. Remove washer reservoir, charcoal canister and ignition coil.             |

5. Remove idle control vaive braecket and let vaive hang. Locate the #12
hose clamp from the kit and install it on the hose that goes from the
manifold to the idle control vaive(*12 clamp will be found in the bag
fabeted "idle control valve hose and clamps"). This will prevent the hose
from popping off under boost.

6. Unbolt spark plug wire assembly and flop over to left side of engine.

7. Raise car and remove both front swaeybar and lower chassis brate tube
which is next to swaybar. Remove right front brake cooling duct.

8. Remove oxygen sensor from cotalyst. Remove complete exhoust system
from car saving all hangers for use later. Remove both the small
heatshield that sits atop the right side steering idler arm and the
heatshield that connects to the inner pick up point of the right rear lower
suspension rod of right front wheel. Remove the large heatshield that
covers the right inner fenderwell on cars so equipped.

9. Remove exhaust manifold. Remove the tweive 8mm studs from the head
if they are not shouldered type and replace them with the tweive
shouldered studs from kit. The threaded holes must be cleaned out with an
Bmm x 1.25mm tap to allow new studs to be installed to proper depth
which is approximately 1/2 of stud shoulder submerged in head. Install
studs using two nuts jJammed together on longer portion of stud. Put a
drop af red Loctite on threads to prevent studs from backing out. The
non—shouldered studs from the factory wiltl often loosen and come out of
head causing noisy exhaust leaks, oil leaks and even engine fires.

10. On cars equipped with manual transmission, you will need to repisce
the factory clutch with the high performance clutch from kit. Install new
clutch following normal factory procedure for clutch replecement.

11. Locats the sheetmetal lip that is on top of the right front freme rail
that is about 1/2" high and about 11" long that runs between the firewsl1
and right front strut tower support. See Figure 1. Use vise grip type
pliers to bend the first 4" starting from the firewall. Bend this lip about
45 degrees away from engine. Finish this bending using a large hammer.
Use some touch up paint or spray undercont if any paint chips off.

12. Remove the large diameter AC hose (split return hose) that connects
to the freon regulator then runs down and through right fenderwell. Please
send this hose back to Dinan Engineering for return of core charge. MOTE:
The freon regulator is the small unit in line on the AC return lTines that is
mounted near the top of the right front strut tower support.
13. Use Figure 8 to find the location of the 2" hole to be drilled in the       i
right front fenderwell for the return Tine from the "cool box" in the rear of   1

car. Mark this spot and drill a 178" pitot hole. Now drill a 2" hole using a    |
2" hole saw. We prefer to drill the 2" hole from the wheel side of the
fenderwell. If you wish to remove the front right side wheel at this point      {
it will help you through some of the next few steps. Clean and deburr this      +
hole using a half—round file and use a little touch up paint on any bare
metal.                                                                          t

14. Use Figure 11 to see where the larger diameter metel return pipe from
the cool box needs to be bent down and sway from frame rail. Remove the
nut that hoids the two mounting clamps for the metatl pipes below and
behind the right front brake lines. Remove the clamp from the smaller
pipe and puli it just far enough away from the frame rail to let the larger
pipe go under then around the hose section of the smaller pipe. Remove and
reverse the mounting clamp for the larger pipe. Reinstall the larger pipe
on the mounting stud using the original nut but with the pipe bent down
and under the mounting stud.

15. Unbolt the freon regulator from the strut tower support. Install the
new split return hose on car the same way original hose was but route the
hose through the new 2" hole in the fenderwell. Run the S—bend part of
this hose under the brake line bracket. Connect the lower fitting to the
return pipe. Some bending will be required to line these fittings up. Make
sure the AC lines have at least 378" clearance from the brake lines. Do not
fully tighten any fittings at this point.

16. You will see that the freon regulator needs to be relocated higher up
on strut tower support. Use the 25mm long 10mm head sheet metal screw
with small washer to reattach regulator. Find one of the small round
plastic spacers that were under the fenderwell heatshield on the mounting
studs. This will be used to extend the regulator mounting clamp away
from the strut tower support. Find the spot where the regulator should be
mounted with the return hose centered in the 2" hole and with the plastic
spacer under the mounting clamp. The spet for the new screw hole should
be about 172" to 3/4" from the top surface of the strut tower top. Mark
this spot with a scribe, then drill a 5/32" hole. Apply a little grease on
the tip of the sheet metal screw and secure the regulator with the spacer
under the mounting clamp. Do not fully tighten this screw so regulator can
be rotated for later adjustment.. Locate the 19—3/4" long AC hose from kit.
Connect this hose to the condenser in the front of car where the stock tine
was removed. Route this hose backward through the large hole behind the
right side headlights. Make sure the rubber o—rings are in place before
installing all AC hoses. This hose gets connected to the receiver—drier at
a later step. You may wish to temporarity wire tie this hose out of the
way as far to the left as possible for making intercooter installation

17. Replace the right side headlights, side grill and turn signal assembly.

10. Use Figure 2 to measure ond mark for the intercooler cutout. This is
on the lower sheetmetal traoy below and behind the right hesdlights. Mark
the cutout with a sherp scribe then cut out piece with a fiberglass cutting
disc or other suitable tool. Smooth the rough edges with a file and cover
any bare metal with touch up paint.

19. The bracket that was used to hold large washer reservoir must be
completely removed from front of right fenderwell. Cut with fiberglass
cutting disc and use touch up paint.

20. t is very important that intercooler receives as much air flow as
possible to attain a high level of efficiency. Any sheet metal or plastic
that blocks air flow to intercooter that you wish to remove will result in
more horsepower. We usually remove part of the sheet metal thet is
behind and betow right side headlights leaving some of the outlining edge
metal for front panel support. Be very careful when cutting this metal
since there are wires behind this panel. Use fiberglass cutting disc, file
and touch up paint. Find the right headlight assembly that was previously
removed. Hold assembly up to its normal position and note that there is a
sheet metal lip on bottom portion of headlight bucket that can be removed
to increase air flow to intercooler without sacrificing much structural
rigidity of bucket.

21. On cars equipped with sutomatic transmissions the transmission
cooling hoses that connect to radiator must be removed from radiator.
Next remove the three clamps that hold the metal portion of the cooling
lines to the bottom of the car. Now pull the hoses down through the hole in
lower sheet metal tray. These cooling hoses are to be routed in front of
the vertical piece of sheet metal panel that was previously in front of
transmission cooling hoses. Some bending of metal lines is necessary but
avoid making shorp bends that can cause kinking or breakage. Reattach
cooling hoses and resecure cooling lines to bottom of car.

22. Use Figure 3 to locate hole for oil return. Mork engine with center
punch in spot shown on lower right side of engine block near the
transmission. Drill a 178" pilot hole, then redril} hole with 112716" drill
bit, but before hole is complete cost drill bit tip with grease to catch
metal chips. Now tap hole with 1/2" pipe tap coated with grease. Remove
andregrease tap a few times during tapping process. Generaily tapping is
compieted when tap is about 37/4" of the way in engine block. Now, using
flexible head magnet tool, reach into oil pan through hole to pick up any
stray metal chips. Repeat this procedure several times until magnet
comes up clean. If you wish to remove the oil pan before drifling this hole
you can make sbsolutely sure that no chips enter engine.

 23. Locate 45 degree 5/8" hose to 1/2" pipe fitting and using a little pipe
 threod sealant install in engine block pointing up and forward about 45

 24. Remove oil filter canister and filter from oil filter housing. Remove
 oil filter housing from engine. Be careful not to damage gasket. Using
 Figure 4 mark and drill 217/64" hote in oil filter housing for turbo oiler
 line. Tap hole 1/8" pipe thread, wash out housing and install —4 to 1/8"
 pipe straight fitting with pipe seatant. Reinstall ofl filter housing.
 Install new oil filter and canister. Change engine oil at this time.

 25. Prop the hood up with an appropriate hood prop. Disconnect right hood
~ shock from the inner fender and leave disconnected temporarily. It will be
 connected to a new mount latter.

 26. Locate the mounting screws that mount the top of the right front
 fender to the chassis. These screws are located in the long fender channel
 at the top edge of the fender. Notice the fender screws that is the second
 one from the front fender. This screw will be above the lower mounting
 pivot pin for the right side hood shock absorber. Remove this screw.

 27. Place the new hood shock mount in the fender channel with 8mm pivot
 boit pointing toward engine. Line up the rear hole on hood shock mount
 with the original fender screw hole and reinstall the fender screw. Lightly
 tighten the screw for now. Adjust hood shock mount so it is parallel with
 fender channel. Use a sharp scribe to mark the front mounting hole on top
 of the fender channel.

 28. Remove hood shock mount from fender channel and center punch the
 spot for the new hole to be drilied. Drill hole using a 7/764" drill bit.

 29. Permanently install the hood shock mount using the originel screw in
 the rear hote. Stip one of the 8mm fist washers between the hood shock
 mount and the fender channel with the washer lined up with the mounting
 hole. Secure the front of the mount using the 10mm head sheetmetal screw
 provided. Note put a little grease on the tip of the screw to aid in the
 tapping process.                                                                   F
 30. Remove the small locking clip that holds the lower end of the right           ||
hood shock to the mounting pin. Stide two 8rm flet washers onto the                g             2
pivot boit of the new hood shock mount. Move the hood shock to its new
mounting pin.You may have to unde the left side hood shock temporarily to
allow you to move the right shock onto the new pivot. Place one washer on
the cutside of the shock end and thread the mm lock nut on the stud. Do
not tighten the nut sll the way leave space so the shock head can pivot.

31. Remove the original hood shock mounting pin and bracket from the
inner fender. We recommend a fiberglass cutting whee} on a die grinder for
this tank. Cut ass close to the fender as possible. Clean up rough edges
using a round die grinder bit. Paint area matching original color.

32. Use Figure 5 to note placement of intercooler mounting brackets.
NOTE: This view is a cutaway to more clearly show mounting. Attach the
middle intercooler bracket to the intercooler using one rubber intercooler
mount, two dmm nuts and two mm wave washers. Attach the upper
intercooler bracket using one rubber intercooler mount, two 8mm nuts and
two dmm wave washers. Slide the intercooler down through the
intercooler cutout and let the middle intercooler brecket sit flat on the
lower sheet metal tray. Notice where the upper intercooler bracket is
going to mount to the vertical sheet metal panel just betow the rubber
hood seal. Hold the upper bracket against the fist sheet metal piece and
try to center the intercooler in the intercooler cutout. Use a sharp scribe
to mark the two upper bracket holes. Center punch then drill out the two
9/32" mounting holes. Mount the upper bracket using two mm x l6mm
bolts, two 6mm nylock nuts and four 6mm fist washers.

33. Raise the car and see where you have to drill a 378" hole in the tow
hook support for mounting the lower intercooler mount. Now center the
intercooler in cutout and use a scribe to mark through the slot on tow hook
support. Center punch and drill the 378" hole in the spot where the nut
will be on the center of the slotted mounting tob. Attach the remaining
rubber intercooler mount to the tow hook support using one 8mm nut and
mm wave washer with two Amm flat washers between the rubber mount
and the hook support. Place two Omm fNlat washers on the rubber mount
stud. Slide the intercooler slotted tab onto the rubber mount and connect
the two using one Aamm flat washer, one 8mm wave washer and one 8rmim

34. Now lower the car and mark for the two 9/32" mounting holes through
the middle bracket with the intercooler in the correct position. Drill the
holes and mount the bracket using two mm x omm bolts, tweo 6mm
nylock nuts and four 6mm flat washers.

                                                                                ho   novmmenvemnesnabn c

35. Find chorcool canister and bracket that were previously removed from
car. This is to be mounted to front of right front fenderwell behind
intercooler where washer reservoir was removed. Hold canister against
fenderwell keeping it low so that it doesn‘t get too close to the eventual
position of upper intercooler pipe or ignition coil with hose fittings
pointing toward engine. Remember that canister bracket clamp can be
loosened to position canister to desired position. Mark the four mounting
holes with scribe. Drill holes 178" and attach bracket to fenderwell using
the original mounting screws. Reconnect hoses as before, shortening them
if necessory. Use *5 hose clamp from kit to clamp larger hose to canister.

36. Mount westegate to exhaust manifold using two tOmm copper lock
nuts and two knurled lock washers. Wastegate is mounted with pressure
release valve pointing down and mating to exhaust manifold face. Exhaust
outlet flange points away from enginge.

37. Install exhaust manifold to engine using new exhaust gaskets.
Mounting is done with tweive 8mm copper lock nuts and twelve Smm
knurled washers. Tighten all these nuts very snug as they are subjected to
high temperatures and vibration.                                 |

38. Connect and tighten the 44" —4 turbo citer hose to turbocharger. A
small amount of anti—seize compound on fitting threeds and mating
surface will prevent thread galling and help produce a tight seal.

39. To install turbocharger on manifold, support engine and remove right
side atuminum motor mount assembly. Install turbo using the four 10mm
knurled washers and copper lock nuts.

40. Locate the oil return fitting and gasket. Also locate the 3" long 5/8"
1D ofl return hose and two *10 hose clamps. Stide the ofl return hose on
the oil return fitting tube. Slide the two ®10 hose clamps on to the oil                                   ;
return fitting on engine block. Apply some engine gasket seater to both
sides of the oil return gasket. Slip oil return hose and fitting in place and                              t£f
connect the oil return fitting to the turbocharger using two 8mm x 20mm                                     L
boits and two Smm knurled washers. NOTE: Some turbochargers require
two 3/8" x 3/74" bolts and two 3/8" knuried washers. Slide the ofl return
hose equally on to both fittings then tighten hose clamps. Replace motor
mount assembly.

41. Aim turbo oil line straight up and over valve cover, through space
between #4 and *5 intake manifold flanges then directly to fitting on oil
filter housing. Apply anti—seize then tighten.

                                                                              , I)}:rzqflm.
42. Locate exhaust downpipe that mounts to outlet flange of turbo. Before
mounting downpipe to turbo hold downpipe in place to outlet flange with
center of downpipe outlet 8" from center line of transmission. If there are
any places where downpipe is closer than 1/72" to heat insulation,
insulation must be moved to produce a minimum gap of 1/2". A large
hammer is suggested for this operation. This step is very important to
prevent any exhaust vibration noise and to assure long life of exhaust

43. Locate the wastegate dumppipe and the 4—778" long piece of flexible
steel tubing. Slide the flex tubing over the end of the dumppipe obout 1".

44. The wastegate dumppipe is mounted to wastegate using two 3/8" x
1— 174" bolts, two 10mm copper tock nuts and two 1Omm knurled washers.
Install dumppipe to wastegate with flexpipe routed through space between
suspension pick—up point bracket and firewall heat insulation without
tightening the boits all the way so that dumppipe position can be adjusted
slightly. If there is insufficient space for dumppipe between suspension
pick—up point bracket and heat insulation, the space should be increased
using large pry bar and hammer on heat shielding. Minimum clearance at
this point should be 3/8".

45. Slide one of the ©16 hose clamps on to flex pipe and tighten onto
dumppipe. Stide the other *20 hose clamp onto flex pipe for use later.

46. Put exhaust downpipe into position while lining up flex pipe to inlet
pipe on downpipe, and with two flst sections of downpipe flange lined up
with flat sections on turbo. Install the three 3/8" x 1—174" bolts through            +
downpipe flange into turbo flange in the two top holes and the bottom
right hole. The 378" x 1—1/2" bolt holds the turbo to engine block support            f

bracket as well as the downpipe flange. Connect other end of turbo                    £

support bracket to threaded hole in block next to transmission bel} housing           f
using one 10mm x 20mm bolt and 10mm wave washer.
47. Now with center of downpipe outlet exactly 8" from center line of
transmission, tighten the four 1O0mm copper lock nuts to the four bolts
that hold downpipe to turbo. Tighten the tomm x 20mm boit on the turbo
support bracket. Tighten the #16 hose clamp on flex pipe at downpipe
wastegate inlet pipe.

48. Center wastegate dumppipe between suspension pick—up point bracket
and heat insulation. Now tighten dumppipe to wastegate.

      9. Cut header down pipe off of catalyst far enough forward so it can cut
     again to fit 3 hole flonge and y pipe see figure 6.

     50. Locate 3 bolt flange and hardware. Bolt 3 hole flange up to downpipe.
     install exhaust system using original hangers measure and cut catalyzer        t
     intet tubes and fit y pipe so exhaust can fit into stock hangers and meets 3   I
     hole fiange precisely. Weld 3 hole flange to to y pipe and y pipe to           &

     catalyzer weld up as much of exhaust as possible in car. see figure 6
     It may be necessary to cut away part of the heat shielding crimped over
     catalyzer. Do a neat job and do not leave any sharp edges for people to cut

     51. Bolt on transmission to exhaust hanger bracket in stock lecation, and
     weld to exhaust. Drop entire exhaust system to complete welding. Paint
     with a good quality high temperature exhaust paint. Reinstall exhaust
     using gasket provided.

     52. Replace stock injectors with turbe injectors (where applicable). A
     ittle lubricant applied to rubber o—rings is suggested for ease of
 (     sembly and seal protection. Make sure ground wires on rear mounting
     bolts are reconnected. Install fuel pressure regulator provided, A little
     lubricant applied to rubber o—rings is suggested for ease of assembly and
     seat protection.

     53. Use the blue 3—M wire connector from kit to connect the two wires
     that plugged onto the windshield washer reservoir level sensor. Fill the
     small washer reservoir located in the small space behind the engine            b—
     compartment with diluted washer fluid.                                         [

     54. Remove the wires from the windshield washer pump located on the
     small windshield washer bottle between the firewall and windshield.
     Locate the two wires that used attach to the large windshield washer
     bottle pump. cut these wires and extend them and connect the plug to the
     pump located on the small washer bottle. (The object behind the rewiring
     is make it so the pump runs when the washer stalk is pulled toward the
     steering wheel.) This should be tested when car is together and running.

      5. Bolt spark plug wire assembly back onto engine. {1t is a good idea to
\_   change spark plugs and check valve lash at this time utilizing factory
     specifications.) NOTE: bulletin from BMWNA regarding new plug gap and
     valve lash settings. LOCATE bag labeled lon shield and haerdwore. Install
     ion shield over valve cover using pedestals provided. The shield is designed
     io cover the distributor cap and plug wire. It should be mounted as far

 56. Reinstall front swoybar and lower chassis brace.

 57. Locate the 14—1/2" straight chrome pipe with the 1" nipple welded
 near one end. This pipe goes between the aluminum turbo discharge pipe
 and the bottom intercooler pipe. The end of the pipe with the 1" nipple
 goes toward the turbo discharge pipe and the nipple should point up and
 toward the engine about 45 degrees. Use a 2—174" straight belliow hose at
 intercooler pipe and a 45 degree 2—1/4" elbow hose at the discharge pipe.
 Use four *32 hose clamps to secure hoses. Adjust the hases so that the
 pipe and hoses have about 174" clearance from any chassis part.

 580. install the ~4 to 1/8" pipe 90 degree fitting into the hole in front side
 of wastegate using a little anti—seize compound on the threads. Aim the
 fitting straight down.

 59. Locate the 16" long —4 wastegate hose from kit. install this hose
 between the wastegate fitting and the —~4 fitting on the turbo compressor.
 Use a Tittle anti—seize compound on the threads and seating surface of the
 fittings. Adjust the hose and fittings so that the hose is about 1/2" from
 all other parts and at least 1" away from any exhaust components.

 60. Modify original air filter box as described in FIGURE 9. Air filter
 should be replaced at this time.

 61. Locate the air flow meter to turbo intake pipe this is an aluminum
 casting that goes from round to oval and back to round. Attach it to turbo
 using the 2—37/4" orange silicone hose, using 2 #44 clamps.

 62. locate upper aluminum casting 90 degree. connect elbow onto first
 casting with 2 374 silicone hose and two * 44 clamps provided. Place
 elbow onto the end of the intake pipe so it aims forward.

~ 63. Locate air flow meter/filter mounting bracket and hardware bag.
  Instail the air flow meter/air filter brocket using the factory air filter
  stand on the right fender—well.

 64. Install the new air ow meter supplied in kit using 2 3/4 to 3" orange
 silicone hose and #44 and #48 hose clamp provided. Mount to bracket
 using 6mm x 1Smm bolt, a mm flat washer and a 6mm wave washer
 provided. Reconnect A.F.M. plug.

 65. Install modified air filter box to air flow meter using the 2—37/4" to 3"
— orange silicone hose, & 44 and a ©48 hose clamp. Attach to bracket using
 a 6mm x 20mm bolt and a 6mm large flat washer fon the slotted air filter

    71. Remount the airbox assembly if it was removed.

    72. Connect the PCY hose assembly between the valve cover breather
    nipple and the 57/78" nipple on the turbo inlet pipe. Use a *10 hose clamp at
    the valve cover mipple to secure the hose. Connect the small vacuum hose
    to the small nipple at the plastic coupler. Use figure 7. If the car is                                                                              £
    equipped with an sutomatic transmission one of the vacuum ports will be                                                                              +
    left open. It will be connected when the shift spiking valve is installed
    latter on in the directions.

    73. Find the black plastic compressor bypass valve from the kit. Also find
    the 2" and 8— 172" tong pieces of 1" ID hose and four *16 hose clamps.
    Stide the 2" piece of hose onto the inlet tube of bypass vaive. The inlet
    tube is the one that is opposite the vacuum nipple for the diaphragm. Stide
    the 8— 172" hose over the outlet tube. Clamp both hoses with the #16 hose
    clamps. Now install this assembly between the 1" nipple on the turbo inlet
    pipe and the turbo to intercooler pipe nipple. Use the two #16 hose clamps
    to secure these hoses while adjusting the vaive for maximum clearance
     from other parts. if necessary, loosen the two hose clamps that hold the
     turbo to intercooler pipe and rotate pipe for proper fitment of bypass
{ 'valve. Cut the vacuum hose leading to the top of the fuel pressure
    regulator about 1—1/2" from regulator. Install the vecuum tee from kit
    and "tee in" the long vacuum hose. Route this hose under the distributor
    cap then back and dowen to the compressor bypass vaive. Secure this hose
    with wire ties to keep it away from any moving objects. Cut off the
    excess hose and connect the haose to the bypass valve.

    74. Locate the intercooler to throitle pipe. This is the 90 degree bent
    chrome pipe with a 3/4"° nipple. Use the 2— 1/4" to 3" adaptor hose and the
    2—174" bellow hose to connect the pipe between the thrattle body and the                                                                  L
    intercooler top pipe. Secure this pipe using three #32 hose clamps and one
    #44 hose clamp but don‘t fully tighten the clamps on the pipe yet.                   in ininrnimn mmrnmpegesnstrvemsnpperesmsnenyermen mmiemorie :

    75. Find the black rubber snubber with the Gmm stud on one end. This is
    to be installed on the top of the right fenderwell to prevent the
    intercooter to throttle pipe from hitting the top of the fenderwell. Mark
    the spot that is directly under the bend of this pipe and drill a 9/732° hole.
    Use a 6mm nut and Smm wave washer to secure snubber. Reinstall pipe
‘ .with pipe resting lightly on snubber, tighten clamps.

    76. Locate the 1—57/8" long 3/4" to 1" hose from kit. Use one #10 and one
    *12 hose clamp to connect this hose between the idle control valve and           '
    the 3/4" nipple.

77. Locate the four 4" lfong wires that are gray, brown, violet and yellow.
These wires are for lengthening the airfiow meter plug wires. Slide the
rubber boot back about 6" from the plug. Now cut the four wires about
1— 1/2" from the plug. Strip the insulation from the ends of the wires.
Stide two pieces of the 7/8" long shrink tubing over each newwire then
solder in the wires according to color. Make absolutely sure that these
wires do not get mismatched. This would prevent the enginge from running
and could cause computer damage! Slide the shrink tubing pieces over the
solder joints then shrink them using a heat gun or cigarette lighter. Now
wrap the wires with friction tape from the factory wire harness then up
to the plug. Spray a lHiitle stlicone spray lube on taped section and then
slide the boot up to and on the plug. Connect the plug to the airflow meter
and wire tie the wires to the bottom side of the intercooter to throttle

78. Find white plastic line centered on the underside of the intake
manifold. find the green and black check vaive from kit. Cut the white
plastic line about in the center and splice in the check vaive. The green
half goes toward the manifold.

79. Change engine oil {filter should have been changed previously}.

80. install oxygen sensor into turbo exhaust manifold and wire in
turbotronics 6 using the following instructions.Note: if sensor has more
than 30 k miles on it replace with new one.

81. Install turbotronics 5 ({map sensor) turbotronics 4 (detonstion control
system) and turbotronics 6 using FIGURES 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 & the
accompanying instructions. The 3 systems must be installed together
because of their close proximity and shered wiring. Note do not mount the
knock sensor to any other control units it puts out a very large
electromagnetic field which may interfere with other control unit
operstions. We recommend that the control unit be mounted on the floor of
the glove box.


Read alt of the following instructions before beginning installation.

                        INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION
                                  FOR THE
                        TURBOTRONICS 4 (DEDCS)
                      MAP SENSOR (TURBOTRONICS 5)
                          AND TURBOTRONICS 6
                             88—89 63Scsi

On the 635, the detonstion control box gets mounted in the left hand
corner of the glove box door{see FIGURE 13). Hold box in position and mark
the three accessible holes. From inside the the glove box, drill the three
morks to 1/8" only through the plastic, NOT all the way through the
leather. Attach plug to DEDCS and secure to glove box using the three
small black screws and the plastic washers.

Use FIGURE 15 to find location for the detonation sensor. Screw the
special mounting stud into the engine block as far as possible, IMPORT ANT:
slide on one O8mm flat washer, the sensor, another 8mm flat washer and
then the Amm locknut. The plug for the sensor should point straight down.
Tighten the 8mm nut to 9 ft. lbs. maximum.

wiring diagram FIGURE 14. Ground wires for control unit (Black and
Yellow): notice that there are two separate ground wires for control unit.
Attach these wires to existing grounded screws in the area above the
glove box. It is important that they be located as far apart as possible to
prevent feedback to each other.

Positive power wire (red): This wire goes to the large red wire with blue
stripe that powers the fuel injection EC.U. Disconnect the harness from
the E.C:U., remove a 3" section of the tape and dig through the harness until
you find it. On some years there will} be two red wires with blue stripes,
in this case, use the largest one. The map sensor will get its power from
this wire also. Using a blue butt connector, tee into this wire as shown at
the bottom of FIGURE 13. Shrink tube this connection. Retape harness and
tie wrap wires to harness.

    'B!ock, Yellow, and Brown (ground): peel back the carpet at the top of the
       right kick ponel. Drill two 3716" hotes, 3" opart, making sure there is
       nothing behind where you are drilling. Scrape the paint away from around
       the holes for good metal to metal contact. Attach the brown and yellow
       wires from the Turbotronics 4 (DEDCS) to one hole and the black wires
       from the turbotronics 5 {map sensor) turbotronics 4 (DEDCS] and
       turbotronics 6 to the other. Use the two 10mm hex head screws to fasten
       wires to kickpanel. (See FIGURES 14 & 16.)

       Detonation sensor wire (Black sleeve with white and black wires): This
       wire must be run through the firewall using the rubber grommet that the
       AZC line go through. Use a flat blade screwdriver to make a small hole in
       grommet below the A/C line. Now poke the sensor wire through the small
       hole and run wire forwerd along the right inner fender—well attaching the
       wire to existing lines of wires, then over to engine. Make sure this wire                    Faclass
       stays away from the exhaust manifold or any moving parts.                                        ~

      Locate the sensor plug from the kit and connect the rubber boot to sensor
    dlug. Strip away the outer sleeve of the sensor wires about 4" from the
«Wend. Cut about 2—1/2" off length of black and white wires. Connect plug
       to sensor. Strip about 37 16" of the insulation off the ends of the small
       white and black wire.. Stip the two 1/2" tong pieces of shrink tubing over
       the wires then solder the sensor wires to the plug. Shrink the tubing over
       the salder joint using a heat gun or cigarette lighter.

       Twist together the bare shield wire and double over the last 174" of it to
       make it thicker. Crimp on the wire lug with the larger hole. Mount this
       wire lug to the air conditioning bracket mounting bolt as shown in FIGURE
       15. Connect plug to sensor.

       Primary ignition wires (Green and White): Route the green and white wires
       through the main fuel injection wiring grommet to the ignition coil. Note:
       it is important to route the green and white wires through a different
       grommet than the sensor wires. The detonation sensor circuit is
       extremely sensitive to electromagnetic pulses and these wires must be
       routed at least 6" apart from each other.

    ‘un the wires forward to the coil. Cut the factory coil wire about 1—1/2"
_      from the wire lug, then connect the wires as shown in FIGURE 14 using the
       blue butt connectors.

  Using FIGURES 7 & 13 run the plastic boost line into the glove box orea.
   onnect to the pressure switch, turbotronics 5 (map sensor) and
  turbotronics 6 as shown in FIGURES 14 & 16 and 17.

  in the 6 series car, Turbotronics 5 the map sensor, turbotronics 6 and the   i
  pressure switch fit into the space just above and to the left of the glove   f
  box light. You can tie wrap them to existing harnesses. Run the brown and
  yellow wires from the map sensor up through the hole in the fire wall {see
  FIGURE 13) and along vailve cover to coolant temperature sensor. Splice
  into brown wire as shown in FIGURE 16. Shrink wrap all connections.

  Route the green and orange wire for Turbotronics 6 to the oxygen sensor
  harness through the same hole that the brown and yellow wires on the map
  sensor where routed. Connect in series with the oxygen sensor black wire
  using figure 17.

  82. Install computer chip according to instructions provided with chip.

  83.) Tie wrap and arrange all wiring and hoses in engine compartment and —
‘mve box area.

  84. If the car is equipped with an manual transmission install pressure
  plate provided. NOTE: If the rest of the clutch components need service or
  if they have more than 60k miles on them we highly recommend you
  replace them at this time.

  85. If the car is equipped with an automatic transmission reinstall valve
  body previcusly remove using sutomatic shift kit directions.

  86. if the car is equipped with an automatic install shift spiking
  controlier as follows . Locate the auto—shift, boost spike controller kit
  Mount solenoid vailve on the ignition coil mounting stud along with coil.
  Using figure 18 connect the black ground wire to a good chassis ground.
  Connect spare lug on pressure switch to the positive side of the coil.       ;
 LIFE DEPENDS ON IT.] Test the boost spiking vaive before connecting           F
 vacuum hoses. Blow through the hose that is marked "fuel pressure
  egulator" it should come out the hose marked "compressor bypass valve"
  1nd not the one marked peyv. Connect a boost gauge to the hose marked
  "compressor bypass".

Take your boost pumping device and pump up the geuge to 10 psi pressure
should hold. pinch or plug off hose and disconnect pump. turn on ignition
key. Connect boost pump to the vacuum hose that goes to the pressure
switch. Pump up switch to 12.0 psi the switch should make, opening the
gauge pressure to the hose marked peyv. The gauge should immediatly go to
0 psi. If this happens the system is working properly. Neatly route the
vacuum hose, marked "FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR®" and tee it into the
vacuum hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Neatly route the
vacuum hose marked " COMPRESSOR BYPASS YALYE" down to the
compressor bypass valve, located on the turbo discharge pipe. Cut off any
extra hose and connect to bypass valve. NOTE: BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO
TO IT". Route the hose marked "PCY" and connect it to the vacuum port
on the T located in the pev hose nearest the turbo inlet. The hose should be
wire tied very corefully to ensure that they will no get pinched.

87. reconnect battery cable

88. Start enging, listen for any strange noises and check for leaks.

89. Evacuate and recharge air conditioning system.

90. With engine completely warmed up no adjustment of the idle co is
necessary.                      '

91. Place a high quality infrared onto taitpipe. Using a hand held pump, i€:
coolant system pressure tester with brass fitting instead of hose, pump up
the line going to the map sensor and turbotronics 6 to 10 P.S.!. (With the
car running) the mixture should get much richer, the RP.M. should change.
If this occurs the system is functioning properly.

92. Test the DEDCS (turbotronics 4) according to the instructions

Testing the system: Plug the light bar display tester into the small jack
on the control unit. Peel back the duct tape on the pressure switch and
disconnect either one of the brown wires. Start engine. Using a long 1/2"
extension, tap on exhaust manifold. The first few lights on the display bar
should flicker and the RP.M. should drop momentarily. This indicates that
the system is functioning property. If nothing happens, recheck all wiring
and connections or call Dinan Engingeering for further assistance.

Reconnect the brown wire to the DEDCS pressure switch ond cover with
the duct tape. Start engine. Tap the engine manifold in the same location
with the same amount of force required to make the display lights flicker
on the first test. The display lights should remain off during this test.
This indicates that the system is functioning property. If any lights come
on, recheck all connections or call Dinan Engineering for further
assistance if necessary. Proceed if system is operating normally.

93. After you have tested both the map sensor, turbotronics 6 and the
DEDCS, you‘re now ready to set the boost level. Start out with wastegate
adjusting screw in about half way. Set beost level according to
transmission type using instructions provided. The detonstion light
display bar must be connected and observed during this test.

                  BGOST SETTING WITH 5 SPEED
Testing must be done on a flat and level road with a long straight away.
with the car in fourth gear at 2000 RP.M. hold your foot on the floor until
5000 RP.M. is achieved or until conditions warrant otherwise. Boost will
rise gradually and decrease. Peak boost should be 11.5 P.S.1. maximum and
should occur between 3200 and 3500 RP.M. Boost must not exceed 12
P.S.1. or damage to engine will result

There are two types of transmissions, electronic and non—electronic. On
cars with electronic transmissions select MANUEL mode. On cars with
non—electronic transmissions disconnect transmission controlled throttle
cable at throttle pipe and select third gear.

With transmission set as described above you may begin testing. Testing
must be done on a flat and level road with a long straight away. With car
at 2000 RP.M., hold your foot on the fleor until 5000 RP.M. is achieved, or
until conditions warrant otherwise. Boost will rige gradually and
decrease. Peak boost should occur between 3200 and 3500 RP.M.. Peak
boost should be at 11 P.S.1. maximum, any higher could severely damage
your engine due to the boost spiking up between shifts. The boost spike
control system must be tested at this time. On cars equipped with an
electronic transgmission select economy mode cars equipped with cable
operated downshift mechanism make sure cable is reconnected.
Have some one ride along to monitor the boost pressure on a gauge
Acceterate from a dead stop when the transmission changes gears boost
will spike approximately 1 psi if the system is working and 3—Spsi if it is
not working. If at any time during this test you hear pinging or it more
than two lights show up on the display bar, LIFT UP ON THE THROTTLE

&e very careful when executing this test since you will be eccelerating
 repidly and reaching relatively high speeds. Dinan Engineering does not
 condone or suggest that any person or persons should exceed the posted
   speed limits on public roads.

   Feel free to call Dinan Engingering at (415)962—9417 if you need further
   assistance getting your engine in the safe range.

                            SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
   As with all turbocharged engines, when shutting off the engine after any
   hard running {freeway driving or "on boost" performance, etc} let the
   motor idle for one to three minutes before turning it off. This allows
   everything to cool down before the oil flow, which lubricates and cools the
   turbo, is shut off. Failure to do so will shorten the turbo life
   dromatically. Also do not boost engine until it is warm or you will
   dramatically shorten engine life. This is true of any engine but especially
   with turbo cars.

( Qtreet turbos are designed to run in boost for only short bursts. if you are
   at a race track or on a very long section of road that enables you run boost
   almost continuousty, lift off occasionally for several miles allowing the
   engine to dissipate heat. !f you are planning to run the car in this manner
   frequently, we recommend the following additional modifications to
   ensure long life: oil cogler and larger capacity radiator.


   SHEETMETAL BOX SECTION             commuienompromenagons rirss on vauag

   .      CUTOUT
       . STAGE IF


           BEND THIS LIP OVER 45°


                   <— 2#—|                   ,

                                FIGURE 2
                                1985—86 6351 STAGE II
                                INTERCOOLER CUTOUT

                                                                                                       FIGURE 3

                                               1985—> 5351,        6351,   7351
                                               O Return floce in ENeine Buock

                                                                                      Eneine BLoCK

                  5 BLOCK MACHINE SURFACE AT
                                         BELL HOUSING

                                               K MACHINE_SURFACE J                        L

                                                            OIL PAN RAIL                  [—
                                                                                  —     LLL‘         Om Pan

                                                        Iza!                          Jn

&            Dr :LL 11/16'f HOLE, THEN TAP 1/2" pipE THREAD

                               nmme nmm
EHRDTTNRRESTNININRNTNRresiae                                                             1

               LER SuUpPPLY¥
IRE 4 Turso OI

                                          3 rk_                 uiL Firter Housine removi |
                 .                                              FROM ENGINE BLOCK.
                                          4     .
                                           & —3——~                         /
                                    4               _}n

                          TI ON SH OW N ABO VE, u e n Ta p 1/8" Pipe.
Dn.. 21/64"° HOLE IN LOCA

                                                          21/64" prill
                                                           i/g= pipe Tap
                                                                ‘tq —4 fitting


                          ©1985—» 6351 STAGE II

                                               UPPER INTERCOOLER

                                     MIDDLE INTERCOOLER
                FRAME                BRACKET
                RAIL                      .
                                                   4¥     F

                                                                   LOWER SHEETME



                                                                         nomagmt t
                           5351 & 6351 Exnaust
                                  Tor ViIEN

                         <—— 3—Houe Francses

      <—__gn.    !     w4 Y PIPE                    .                                          »

                 *<—— CATALYZER

                     <—— ResonaAToR
                                                        rommontipmmeremirrcvenp mm inss coon

                            _5:          Frcure 6



                                TRANSMI SS 10N



             | 1905 5351—6351           STAGE 11
                LL AUTOMATICS 1985—89

                                PCV and VACUUM HOSE ROUTING

                          To cewIemM. Position       _   TO CmEckr. VALUVE
                          on ertflecoft. ChtimisttR.   \ o~»_ tnfome EoDpy

                                                              Z2E GuuAto


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                                              .« yHROWTiE £004
                                                 mAkE SuUpe CrHecH wA LUE
                                                                 » FACcmiG—
                                            x\.\iw m@emcie PoRmno
                                        /         TtHrowLe GD4y.

                   2 HOLE

               RIGHT FRAME RAIL

      1987—89 6351 RIGHT INNER FENDERWELL

                                 AIR FILTER B0X MODIFICATIONS

                                            85—87 7351

          *Cut.airfilter box along dotted lines as shown below.
           Vire clamp and bracket must be carefully removed for
                       Remove bracket by drilling out spot—welds from the
                       inside using a 1/4" drill bit.                           ~

        *Use a 3" fibérglass cutting wheel mounted in a die grinder
        or a hand held hacksaw.(shown above)

                                                  Clamp air—box back together;
DO HNOT REMOVE               .                    upside—down from stock,           to
                                                    '          drawing   below.
THIS BRACKETIL!                                   lfook like    drawing below

                                      Remove bracket
                                      at this line.

     mG—1—                          4.1
5//é' L, vr“_—,"m.-_-;_;}-

                                       HMHount wire clamp here using
                                       sheet—metal serew provided.

                                      Re—paint if desired.

                                                      iduvnib   is

                   SHORT EXTENSION

                       C                       p3

                           1‘                       on sHieL


Fioure — J J


                                <——BRAKE LINE BRACKET

       ~ 1987—89 6351



         APPENDIX B

Diagram of Dinan Turbo System

                                                                                                                       21                         22
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ABOUT        INTERCOOLERS
                                                                                                                                 20                                                                              As a turbo compresses the air going into the engine, it
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 also raises the temperature. This increase in temperature
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 can cause that dreaded detonation. In order for our system
                                                                                   16                        15                                                                                                  to tun 11 pounds of boost, we must cool the chargeair
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 with an intercooler. Not only does cooler air reduce the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 possibility of detonation, it also dramatically increases
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 power by providing a much higher density charge. We use
    L!};}es                                                                      13
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 an air to alr intercooter because they have proven to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 more thermally efficient than air to water, To corraborate
"Getling a 4—door BMW sedan                                                                                                                                                                                      this statement, we offer two examples. When Renault first
To sun in the Jow—13s at just over                                                                                                                                                                               introduced turbocharging to F1 and when Porsche first
100 mites per hour i the quarter,                                                                                                                                                                                intraduced the 935 GT car, they both utlized an air to
with zero—to—sitly times in the                                                                                                                                                                                  water intercooler. Both companies dropped this in favor
low fves with a basically stock
engine, takes more than turbocharging,                                                                                                                                                                           of an air to air intercooler resulting in large gower gains.
it takes...Oinan Charging.*               19                                                                                                                                                                     Because of this all of todays fastest turbo racing cars use
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 air to alr intercooters. Another reason airto alr intercoolers
                       +      _l26                                                                                                                                                                               are so popular is their superior dependability.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   THE BOTTOM LINE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Combined with the finest, most efficient design are the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 highest quality construction and workmanship; clean, well
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 organized gackaging and a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 on the entire turbo system. Here is what the BMWCCA
                                                                                                                                                                                                             had to say about the quality of our system ... "The painstaking
                                     25                                                                                                                                                                      attention to detail was everywhere you looked." AUTOWEEK
                                                                                                                                                                                                             says, ‘The fit and finish is superb, .. The cars are con—

                                                                                                                                           C_ a»                                                             structed so well that a driver has to be reminded this is
                                                                                                                                                                                                             an aftermarket project."

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Now you can see why buying the best is worth the cost.

                                                                                                                                                                                 |— AUT Tal                      DINAN ENGINEERING has successfully addressed every

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 aspect of turbo technology to produce a truly superior
                                                                                                                       (a             Intat air                                 * The best of the best."         product. Call today for consultation or a test drive.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               (415) 962—9417.
                                                          Turbine                             Compressar or Intake
                                                          ur Exhaust Side

                                                                                                                                                                     DINAN CHARGING
  The answer to the fuel management problem is to redesign          Unlike other turbo system manufacturers, we address all                                                . Turbo Exhaust Manifold        14.    Fuot Pressure Regulator
                                                                                                                                                   w & min on e ge po o+

  the car‘s original port injection system to give accurate         three elements to ensure accurate fuel delivery; air flow,                                                                             15.    Fu) Filter
  fuel flow under all conditions. Sure this is more expensive                                                                                                              . Turbo
                                                                    tpm and boost pressure. This gives our system precise                                                  . Waste Gate                    16.    Fuel Pamp
  than add—on devices but the results are well worth it.            controf throughout the entire rpm and boost range. This
  Having a sophistica@ed fuel management system is why              system works so well it prompted TURBO magazine to                                                     . Oxygen Sensor                 17.    Fuel Tank
  turbocharged F1 racing engines are pumping 1000hp out             say "The intercooled 3.5 is able to pull a solid 11 pounds                         .                    Catalizer                      18.    inter Cooler
  of a 1500cc power plant.                                          of boust on 91 octane fuel without lowering the compres—                           .                    Alr Flow Sensor                19.    Combo relay
  This is the solution which Dinan Engineering emptays. Our         sion, resorting to water injection or other autside means                          .                    Ide CO Adjuster                20. Ign/Fl ECU
  redesign Includes high flow injectors, and/or fuel pressure      ‘of controlling detonation, This transmits into someserious                         .                    Amblant Air Tempsensor         21.    Idle ECU
  regulator, a recurved air flow sensor to give you the addi—       performance gains."                                                                .                    Tempsensor                     22.    Turbatronics ECU
  tional fuel flow only when it is needed and an electronic        We call our advanced fuel menagement system TURBO—                               10.                     Thermo Time Switth             23.    Cold Start Injector
  control unit that ties into the existing fuel injection brain.   TRONICS 11. it is the right solution . .. perfod!
  See Item 20 & 22. This ECU measures boost pressure and
                                                                                                                                                    11.                     Injector                       24.    Intake Plenum
  tpm to change the brain‘s existing fuel flow curve to one                                                                                         12.                     Throttle Pos Switch            25.    Battery
  precisely matching the turbocharger‘s needs                                                                                                       13.                     Idfe Control Valve             26.    ignition Switch

Document Created: 2005-09-01 12:44:05
Document Modified: 2005-09-01 12:44:05

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